12V Condenser In 1936-'47 Timers?

[k.perry]

Replica Knuckles can be built as 6 volt in Calif. How about replacing the (OE style) two-piece spring loaded Knuckle points set up and using a set of Bosch 12V, spring-ribbon, single points. W&W Cycle, Wuerzburg http://www.wwag.com gave us a Knuckle conversion kit for Knuckle timer, that uses Bosch points. We had the instructions translated to reveal the heading: "Adapterkit for Knuckle-/Pan-/Flatheads With Hand Adjustable Ignition" This kit includes the hardware and instructions for changing out the OE points assembly, by drilling two small holes in the timer base, and no other destruction of the OE parts (if I read the instructions completely). The '36-47 timer can be retro-ed back to stock at will. The kit is called "Ideal" Vintage Points Adaptor Kit- "The original, shaky and multi-piece circuit breaker is replaced by modern BOSCH-points through an adapter plate. Easy Installation. Kit contains adaptor plate, points, condenser and small parts". Part # 12-299 This from their "2000" 3-D catalog (replete with 3-D viewing glasses). I wonder if they needed 3-D glasses to edit the material?

[k.perry]

I run 12V with the original 6V single points timer, so I don't think it
should be a problem, but maybe this is progress??

Pieter http://www.hydra-glide.net

[k.perry]

Progress maybe Pieter, if we change out the OE Knuckle spring points and make them ribbon-spring points like the '47-60 timer. The OE aftermarket Knuckle points have been reported to wear fast at the points rider. I think this points conversion may be the way to go, unless the OE points and condenser can handle 12 volts as well. Who has "been there" building a 12V OE timer Knuckle? Palmers book says, "The late style (1949-69) condenser will work on a Knuckle timer base but not vise-versa since the later points ('49) need the pigtail found on the later condenser." Looks like there is no problem running 12V through the 6V Knuckle timer.

[Carl N. Olsen]

I convert knucklehead circuit breakers to use 70 and later style points by taking the post out, then blueing the top of the base, putting the point set on the base for location orientation, drilling a hole for the pivot pin which also requires a small shallow counterbore, and drilling and tapping a hole for the lock down screw. This whole conversion takes about 15 minutes and you do not need to go to the Harley shop to buy points as they are available in any auto supply store. Just tell them you need them for a Chevy 250 cu. in. six cylinder form the 60's and 70's. You can use the same hole for mounting the condenser which by the way does not care if it is 6 volts or 12 volts current running thru it. A condenser's job is to enhance the spark of the coil by creating a charge when the points open.

[hd36knuckl]

Where is it written in the California Vehicle Code that a "Replica" Knuckle must be 12 volts? What section of the code states this? I want to read this law.
I have built many "Special Construction" bikes and they have never inspected the electronics.
The new Knuck Bobber I am building will be 12 volt because of my wants/needs and not because there is a law. I will be using a Model 65A generator disguised as a 32E. 1965 timer disguised as a Knuck unit. 12 volt coil. 12 volt halogen bulbs in stock lamps.
Inquiring minds need to know.

[k.perry]

But, I..well, I...(back pedals furiously) ...better go check with the CHP (Calif. Hwy Patrol). You never know till you ask. If you're right and I am wrong...folks....this is huge for the replication generation. I hope you're right, but I think I already asked "officer friendly" last year and he told me 12V was federally mandated. I'll get back to youse soon.
How's that XA spring-fork Knuck coming along?
I called officer Perez at the CHP. He could have told me to go and buy the current Calif. Vehicle Code Book (916) 657-7501; but he took the time to look it up for us in his copy, and it reads: "Section 24410; sub-section "B"... and translates as, "Single beam headlight...must be seen and can clearly illuminate anything in it's path for a distance of 200'."
Then, from "Section 24600; sub-section "E"... which translates as, "All tail lamps after Jan. 1, 1969 (which includes 2003, "special construction") must be located no lower than 15" or higher than 72" than the pavement...and must be visable for at least 1000' (Used to be only 500', but 1/1/69 changed that.)
It does not matter whether you run a 6V or 12V system as long as... "the bulbs are the correct rating to conduct voltage to the bulb socket, without a voltage drop of not less than 80% of it's original voltage from it's point of origin". Not a problem. The new Calif. Vehic. Code books won't be ready for 2 or 3 weeks they said and they won't sell an old issue. Call back, they advised.
Well, I am one happy jack.
Now, I wonder if we can fit the directional wiring (6V wiring being fatter than 12V wiring) into the handlebar along with the spark control coil/cable and the dimmer wires, or use or put a (bottom feeder switch, not side feeder switch) dimmer/directional switch on the right handlebar. I think there was a starter button switch (on the top-right) in that spot on the '65 Pans, but we could put a dimmer/directional switch there. All cables and wires have to go inside, nothing flapping around or clamped externally. Can this be done? We're almost there, and this is the last niggling detail. Or, let's put the dimmer switch on the right footboard, under and ahead of the brake pedal and use the left handlebar (old headlight) toggle switch for the turn signals.
I am foot-stomping happy to find out that I can build a 6-Volt machine. Low-spark of that headlight comes traveling through a wooded glen...you can hear it's a Harley.....but then you see that beam and .."Hark!...it's an antiquer!"