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Thread: Clutch adjustment question

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Saltsburg PA
    Posts
    354

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    That knurled nut just holds the seal/oring for worm in place. I can move my clutch by hand without too much force. Its nice and snug, but not really hard to push by hand.
    Just making sure.....you do have the pin in place for the steel stationary plate/disk?
    Jason Z
    AMCA #21594
    Near Pittsburgh PA (Farm Country)
    Allegheny Mountain Chapter http://amcaamc.com/

  2. #12

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    Yup, the pin is in place, and the steel plate is new and clean. Thanks.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Oak View, CA.
    Posts
    65

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    Could be a couple of things... the correct angle of the worm lever should be 2 o'clock (you may have to turn the lever over and try a slightly different position). It could be the length of the clutch rod (adjustment of the clevis). You quite possibly could have an incorrect pressure plate measurement. Maybe weak or too short clutch springs. If you cant seem to get the slippage issue resolved with the pedal and worm lever... then you'll have to take off the outer primary cover and check the press. plate measurement and the springs. The internal measurements are equally important for the clutch to work well. Simply adjusting the pedal and worm lever may be only half of the problem. You don't want the throw-out bearing to have a load on the backing plate. Thats why the internal measurements are so important. I'm thinking your problem is with the internal measurements. Hopefully not. But don't hesitate to pull the primary cover and check it out... you may find thats your problem. Kiwi has several clutch tools (clutch removal tool, etc.) available that you will use often... money well spent. Good Luck C2K

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    753

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    Good advice right there!
    Pisten Bulley is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Oak View, CA.
    Posts
    65

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    One thing I forgot in my last response... theres a pretty good tutorial video on UTube by Mike Tomas of KIWI Indian. "Kiwi Indian Clutch Adjustment".
    Mike has several other UTube videos. They cover the basics, however as with most other things there are always a few 'tricks of the trade' and of course, you'll learn as you go. Again, as an Indian owner, you are learning things no one really cares too much about... until something goes wrong, or won't work as well as planned.
    I'm sure you can find someone up in the bay area to mentor you. They are there, I know some of them. Of course the hunt for help will come easier when you are able to ride around the neighborhood on your Chief. Its certainly worth the effort, and you will be rewarded with making new and enduring friends. We here on the forum, all know you are new at this and several here have offered 'long distance help'. However, a warm body, someone close to home, is out there... you just have to seek them out. You'll get there eventually, don't get anxious, just be sure to get it right. This internet thing and the forum will only get you so far. Its a long road... You're doing fine. Good Luck, C2K

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChiefTwoKicks View Post
    One thing I forgot in my last response... theres a pretty good tutorial video on UTube by Mike Tomas of KIWI Indian. "Kiwi Indian Clutch Adjustment".
    Mike has several other UTube videos. They cover the basics, however as with most other things there are always a few 'tricks of the trade' and of course, you'll learn as you go. Again, as an Indian owner, you are learning things no one really cares too much about... until something goes wrong, or won't work as well as planned.
    I'm sure you can find someone up in the bay area to mentor you. They are there, I know some of them. Of course the hunt for help will come easier when you are able to ride around the neighborhood on your Chief. Its certainly worth the effort, and you will be rewarded with making new and enduring friends. We here on the forum, all know you are new at this and several here have offered 'long distance help'. However, a warm body, someone close to home, is out there... you just have to seek them out. You'll get there eventually, don't get anxious, just be sure to get it right. This internet thing and the forum will only get you so far. Its a long road... You're doing fine. Good Luck, C2K
    Yup, agree with all of that. I expected this bike to have some issues so I'm not bummed, I'm actually pretty happy. I've had it out around the hood three times already and will take it out again tomorrow to adjust a few things, esp the worm and clutch linkage. If all goes well I'll ride to Woodside on Sunday with my Harley buddy, which is about 15 mi each way, no highways. Once it starts raining I'm gonna have Indian Frank convert my generator to 12v and get a proper regulator and battery, so I can actually ride with the lights on. I'll pull the primary cover off then too and inspect everything. Appreciate all the help from everyone here. It's a really good group of folks.
    Last edited by Lipdog; 11-22-2019 at 11:47 AM.

  7. #17

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    I rode about 40 mi last weekend before the rain came. The bike ran well, but I still had the issue of the clutch creeping back into the engaged position, which stalls the bike if I'm not careful. The clutch otherwise works fine. As I mentioned before, I replaced the friction plate and spring and adjusted the foot lever and it seems to work well.

    I had a chance to pull the cover off today. I also watched the Kiwi Indian video C2K recommended. As far as I can tell, everything looks good. The space between the pressure plates is between 1/8" and 3/16". It also looks like a new clutch. Check out the photos below. Is there anything that looks wrong? What else could be the source of this problem?

    IMG_0540.jpgIMG_0541.jpgIMG_0542.jpgIMG_0543.jpgIMG_0544.jpg

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Oak View, CA.
    Posts
    65

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    Before I get too deep here... is your transmission and the primary separate, or is the trans/primary open through and share the same oil ? Is the oil level correct and filled to the inspection plug with the bike on the center stand ? What oil are putting in the trans/primary ? I recommend Harley Sportster Trans fluid. Tension on the primary chain checked and measured through the inspection hole ? upper part of the chain should move up and down the width of the inspection hole when checked. If all that checks out, then you might want to check the worm gear and look for wear marks or spalling on the spirals. I had a clutch get real sticky once, and it turned out to be the worm needed to be replaced. I didn't really see evidence of the wear, but when I changed the worm, it solved my problem. Is the bike difficult to get into first gear when you first begin your ride ? Does it grind getting into gear ?
    When your clutch "creeps"... what exactly is your left foot doing ? Are you putting the bike in gear, disengaging the clutch and then removing your foot from the pedal ? Are you "riding" the clutch pedal ? Maybe a more detailed explanation of what and how you come to the conclusion your clutch is "creeping" would help in understanding whats going on here... Its pretty hard to figure this out from a keyboard...
    Some say you can take your foot off the clutch in the disengaged position and the pedal is "supposed" to remain disengaged. I never have trusted that statement. Although this is the first time I have ever encountered the problem you have. Gonna need more specific details from you about what is happening here to get a better handle on it. C2K

  9. #19

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    Agree with 2 kicks on not trusting pedal coming back. These aren’t Harleys with a cam over spring to hold down clutch pedal. My best setup will eventually walk back to engage after a minute or so. Looking at the tiny throwout bearings probably not a good idea to keep disengaged longer than a stoplight anyways.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    486

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bubbalowe View Post
    Agree with 2 kicks on not trusting pedal coming back. These aren’t Harleys with a cam over spring to hold down clutch pedal. My best setup will eventually walk back to engage after a minute or so. Looking at the tiny throwout bearings probably not a good idea to keep disengaged longer than a stoplight anyways.
    Consider also that the clutch hub bushing only spins on the shaft when the clutch is in and these bushings are almost always worn loose so minimize the time.
    BTW I never trust or use this feature.
    Tom

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