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Thread: electric start 1941 ulh

  1. #1

    Default electric start 1941 ulh

    hello members. got some broken-back downtime. was wondering if a 65-69 electric start primary will work with a 80" 1941 ulh? or if their is a way to run electric start with a ulh in a swingarm frame?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Beautiful Northern New Mexico
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    With enough time and money anything is possible. You would need a '65-'69 transmission case and mainshaft, a few modifications to your engine cases, and an offset engine sprocket to align the tapered shaft UL to the '65-'69 chain line. Entirely doable. If the frame is early you will need to deal with oil tank clearance and other issues, if it is a later e-start frame it is much easier.
    Robbie Knight Amca #2736

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,315

    Default

    You'd need 12 volt electrics as well. The Big Twin flatheads are usually easy and reliable starters, and the 41ULH is a desirable model, so I'd practice on something else first.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    432

    Default

    I have a '40 EL my friend Ricky has a '54 FLH and we both used Tech Cycle setups we modified to look like stock bikes. I still use a foot clutch and tank shift. I disguised the 65A generator with a 32E cap same on the post '65 timer with earlier cap and electronic relay with FXE battery in horseshoe oil bag. You've got to look twice. Also run tin primary with stock transmission.
    DrSprocket

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    939

    Default

    Just run Russ Peterson's Right Side Electric Start >http://www.4speedelectricstart.com/product.html<


    I have two, soon three, on thirties and forties Big Twins. Bolts on any 4-speed 1936-79 in place of the entire kicker cover, uses a common
    Sportster starter motor, & the bike's stock transmission and drive. NO modifications to the metal, at all. It's a great thing for my broken-down old body, that grew tired of my left-leg kicking and said, "No more." after 45 years.
    The electric starter turns the stock kickstarter gears, and is smooth, well-developed & reliable. About $1600 for the whole kit. Includes a trick full-cap oil tank that hides the whole rig underneath and carries a Softail battery. You pick an aftermarket starter. I love mine. And, it's completely removable for restoration later. Also uses a BDL Kickstart-bike 1185 primary belt, for smooth, clean and amazingly quiet motoring. I'm quite sold on "RSES."
    Last edited by Sargehere; 08-16-2019 at 10:44 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    432

    Default

    That's o.k. if you don't want it to look stock and keep the kicker too.
    DrSprocket

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rubone View Post
    With enough time and money anything is possible. You would need a '65-'69 transmission case and mainshaft, a few modifications to your engine cases, and an offset engine sprocket to align the tapered shaft UL to the '65-'69 chain line. Entirely doable. If the frame is early you will need to deal with oil tank clearance and other issues, if it is a later e-start frame it is much easier.
    thanks rubone. got a 73 fx frame, an aftermarket pan/shovel inner primary and a 68 tranny some were. i'm 62 and it occurred to me in the hospital that my totaled-out bagger was 1 of 3 bikes out of my 14, with electric start. allways wanted a flatty thought i'd go with form follows function. just gotta come to grips with modifying the left case. will probably substitute an aftermarket left case. for $500 i can avoid the guilt, and still have the original for value. high compression (squish) heads and old legs might be a problem in the future.

  8. #8

    Default battery-yes

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Slocombe View Post
    You'd need 12 volt electrics as well. The Big Twin flatheads are usually easy and reliable starters, and the 41ULH is a desirable model, so I'd practice on something else first.
    this ones #14 i'm done practicing...just figured i'd put something together with parts sitting around. at 62...i'm building for the future on this one. i've never kicked a 80" high compression ulh. i'm guessing it kicks back, compared to a 74- "u" with low-med compression heads. outof respect, i'm building the engine stock.

  9. #9

    Default

    The sprocket offset is the same as the extra length of the transmission mainshaft: about 1/4".
    I haven't done this, but I'd examine the pieces to see if it's do-able. I would try to use the UL left case's 3 existing inner primary holes (with studs instead of bolts) to mount an intermediate plate (6061 flat stock, eBay) bolted to the aluminum inner primary to minimize engine mods. Perhaps a fabricated through stud to replace the existing at about 4 o'clock, and others if they fall inside the electric primary outline or are non-obtrusive.
    The UL's low compression ratio and heavy flywheels should make this work very well, but if needed a compression release can be installed in the front head (more room than the rear?) to speed up cranking. It can be almost anywhere because IIRC it doesn't intrude into the chamber itself if the thread depth is watched carefully. Can be cable operated for a 2-stroke, solenoid-operated may be available.
    If you have (and wish to retain) the original manual spark control it will probably crank faster and less likely to "bite" the starter if retarded when cranking.

  10. #10

    Default i've considered one of these.....but still want the option to kick, until i can kick

    Quote Originally Posted by Sargehere View Post
    Just run Russ Peterson's Right Side Electric Start >http://www.4speedelectricstart.com/product.html<


    I have two, soon three, on thirties and forties Big Twins. Bolts on any 4-speed 1936-79 in place of the entire kicker cover, uses a common
    Sportster starter motor, & the bike's stock transmission and drive. NO modifications to the metal, at all. It's a great thing for my broken-down old body, that grew tired of my left-leg kicking and said, "No more." after 45 years.
    The electric starter turns the stock kickstarter gears, and is smooth, well-developed & reliable. About $1600 for the whole kit. Includes a trick full-cap oil tank that hides the whole rig underneath and carries a Softail battery. You pick an aftermarket starter. I love mine. And, it's completely removable for restoration later. Also uses a BDL Kickstart-bike 1185 primary belt, for smooth, clean and amazingly quiet motoring. I'm quite sold on "RSES."
    cool set up.....if you can't start em....you can't ride em. the future for me is extending my riding days till i tire of it which i'm hopeing is the day i die.

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