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Thread: Rebuilding the Q-ship; a 1964 Harley Davidson Sportster

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    95

    Default timing cover part 2

    here are some more photos of the cover showing the where the weld needs finishing; as well as the delamination(s)

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  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Fork Sliders and Oil Tank: Well, the fork sliders have great bushes inside and cleaned up well. The outside, however, is shot. So, these will get striped and rechromed. They are the only part being rechromed on the whole bike. The oil tank is something we thought about. Because it is steel, media blasting will remove the flaky chrome in a couple of hours. BUT, there is always a tiny risk we don’t get all the media removed. I don’t want abrasive media in my oil. By sending out the tank, it will get stripped AND boiled. We will then be able to wash the tank out in the parts washer and go right to paint or powder without blasting. Considering how expensive correct oil tanks are . . . we’ll gladly spend the money to have this one professionally dealt with.

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    Oh, and before we sent things out, Chuck briefly took the "original" chromed bits over to the buffing station and lightly hit them with white rogue to make sure they'd clean up. Turns out the 50 plus year old handlebars, fork covers, and headlamp rings will clean up very nicely.

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    Now, we can finally return to Mike Love’s original question about DIY removal of plating on a set of early 80s Ironhead engine cases.

    Earlier, we thanked Mike for giving us the year and model. This is because Harley changed the alloy and production method for engine cases throughout the life of the model. By the early 80s, the engine cases were die cast – this is very different than the sand cast motor we are working on with the Q ship. Because we don’t have experience stripping these cases, we aren’t sure what alloy they might be. Similarly, they will have races in them and other bits we don’t want to get media in or acid on. And we really don’t want to mess up gasket seams or parting surfaces. So, home acid might be the wrong way and media blasting might be days of work. Given all this, there are a few choices. If you want to restore, we’d recommend taking the cases apart, removing all ferrous metals, and sending them for deplating. You’ll still be faced with restoring the texture (if you so want) – but this is probably the “safest” method for the cost. Second option is to really clean the cases and use something like a soda blaster to remove the loose or flaking bits. Then, carefully work the edges. Follow this up by several light coats of silver high-temp paint . . . and you might be able to cheat. Third option is to just polish the ugly plate and let road grime win until you need a bottom end. You “could” rattle can them with wrinkle black; but where’s the fun in that?

    So, there is a really, really long-winded explanation. DIY is fun on this stuff, it just takes way longer than we'd normally like.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    269

    Default

    Well, thanks for the great details and I do now understand the process. Agains thanks so much. Speaking of Zep Alume, we used it diluted to clean our ladders when I worked for the fire department. Its no wonder I have some chronic respiratory impact.

    Mike Love

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    269

    Default

    Your time/project management comments are very well described and I understand where you are coming from. Appreciate hearing from your experience. These plating/deplating and time management descriptions are some of the excellent learning moments chocked into the member bike builds.

    Thanks Chuck and Will

    Mike Love

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