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Thread: Harley Davidson WL front cylinder issues

  1. #11
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    sny,
    It is unusual for an electrical problem to manifest itself after sitting for a few days, although not unheard of.
    I think a more likely issue is a fuel blockage. I would check the emulsion tube in the carby. It sounds like the idle circuit is functioning, but cannot get any fuel off idle.

  2. #12
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    Thank you for your proactive reply. Do you recommend to use a torque tool for tightening the bolts? Any recommendation which torque strength to use?

  3. #13
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    Seattle
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    Quote Originally Posted by epazikas View Post
    Thank you for your proactive reply. Do you recommend to use a torque tool for tightening the bolts? Any recommendation which torque strength to use?

    Yes you need a torque wrench like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMPKAD0

    Then you torque each bolt to 55lbs. Use a star pattern, criss-crossing the head from bolt to bolt.

    If they get too loose it can allow air/gases to escape which could cause the situation you describe where it will idle but you have a loss of power and the cylinder/head is cool (because the gases are escaping rather than exploding).

    Since you were riding the bike and it ran fine they could have loosened up after getting hot during your ride and then cooling. You should recheck the bolts from time to time regardless if this is your ultimate problem or not.

    As others have said also look for fuel issues like clogs or float bowl sticking or loose.

  4. #14
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    Reno NV
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    If you are going to use a torque wrench, you usually need a set of torque adapters to fit the base nuts. Normally not enough room to fit a socket and wrench in the space.
    This set is very good quality, Stanley Proto J5100 3/8" Drive Torque Adapter Set, 12 Point, 9PC on Amazon.
    These are also used for head bolts on a lot of bikes where the bolts come from underneath the heads like shovels etc.

  5. #15
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    Jun 2001
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    I don't think much of "clickers", Folks...

    Get a common, cheap torsion wrench with a dual drive, both up and down.
    Then adapters, such as "obstruction wrenches" (which should always make a ninety degree angle from you hand to the end of the wrench to the fastener) can be used in four different positions to access fasteners when things are in the way.

    ....Cotten
    PS: I've got two or three spares if anybody needs one (and cheaper than the clicker!)
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    Last edited by T. Cotten; 07-29-2019 at 03:48 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  6. #16
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    Seattle
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    Cotten has all the neat tools!

    On my VL the torque wrench reaches all the bolts just fine but I realize we’re not talking about a VL


    Quote Originally Posted by T. Cotten View Post
    I don't think much of "clickers", Folks...

    Get a common, cheap torsion wrench with a dual drive, both up and down.
    Then adapters, such as "obstruction wrenches" (which should always make a ninety degree angle from you hand to the end of the wrench to the fastener) can be used in four different positions to access fasteners when things are in the way.

    ....Cotten
    PS: I've got two or three spares if anybody needs one (and cheaper than the clicker!)

  7. #17
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    I have tried to use torque wrenches in all my jobs.
    In my teens, I used a lever torque wrench with an indicator as per cottons photo. I always knew it was not very accurate, but it allowed me to be consistent. I think I still have one somewhere.

    As I learnt more, and had more money, i went to a click type torque wrench. I still use these to this day, although the quality is much better these days.

    If we disregard the actual torque settings, a torque wrench will give you some consistency in your bolt torques, even with a lever/pointer type.

    When you are starting out, it is important to understand how tight bolts need to be. It is part of being a good mechanic and is part of the learning process.
    Over time, you learn to feel how tight a bolt should be.

  8. #18
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    When I worked government R&D, Mick,..

    A 'lever-pointer' torsion wrench was manditory, as it is more consistent and durable than a spring-loaded clicker.

    A clicker steals your patience and feel, and doesn't allow the fastener to "creep" while held at the spec.

    A correction to my previous post: An obstruction wrench will fit upon a dual-drive wrench in eight different positions.

    ...Cotten
    PS: I'll have two torsion wrenches available at D-port, Folks,... cheap.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  9. #19
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    Reno NV
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    Cotton,
    I am sure any Gov equipment is going to be better than the torque wrenches that most of us have.
    There are a lot of very accurate ways to measure torque these days.

    The inherent variables associated with bolted joints make it difficult to obtain an exact torque setting, unless a specification and procedure is documented.
    For most of our work, a torque value plus or minus something is usually adequate. I think a more important value is consistent torque through the joint.

    I assume what you call an obstruction wrench is what i call a torque adapter. Short wrench with a ring spanned on one end and a square drive on the other.
    I am sure most people know this, but just in case, I will state it anyway.
    There are only one or two angular positions where the torque wrench setting is correct. Any other positions need formula if you want your setting to be correct.

    Cheers

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