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Thread: What's the best way for shooting paint on a hinge fender?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    283

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    I painted my rear in 1995 and had no issues what so ever and it was a tri-coat with chipping or what not. I sealed the metal with ppg dp 90 epoxy primer(nla), masked the hinge, then hit it with 2 coats of lacquer primer. I then block wet sanded it with 220, shot one more coat of lacquer primer and wet sanded it with 400.

    I then painted 2 coats of harley cream ppg base, one coat with the fender open, let it cure for an hour closed the fender, taped it shut and masked the hinge. I then shot the other coat and let it cure for another hour. I then masked off the the lower half for the two-tone and pulled the hinge tape. I then shot 2 coats of the color base and 2 coats of the color. I then unmasked the fender when cured and opened the fender just enough to make sure it was not sticking and masked it shut again. I then sprayed around 3 or 4 coats of very thin clear acrylic enamel and let it dry over nght. The next morning I pulled the tape just a bit to check the hinge just a little and taped it shut again and mounted it to the bike.

    Todays paint is very high build, the hinge will work fine until you clear it. Even when the fender is tacked shut, you still have to be careful not to glue the to peices together with the clear or it will crack from vibration and pull a huge chunk of paint off of either side. I am going to paint two rear fenders within the next couple of weeks.One welded and one not. One thing for certain, the fender will not be opened until time for paint again.

    How do you think the guys with the Ford Model As do? Their hinge is the length of the hood and they do not have a choice. One thing I do know is the tighter the two halfs of the rear fender fit together, the more problems you will have. Total paint should not be thicker tham 3 mils, that equals .003".
    Last edited by ryan; 04-11-2019 at 11:33 AM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
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    923

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Luland View Post
    In this day and age, there is no reason to open it to start with. Are ya really going to strip the wheel off and break the bead on the side of the interstate with crazy people doing 90 plus past you? If you do, your a better man than I will ever be. I call the man with my handy cell phone and I go home with clean hands and my balls intact. Bob L
    Very amusing, Robert, but I've done that; on I-75 in Georgia, on a road trip about four hunnert miles from home. Jacked up the UL and removed the rear wheel, hitched a ride to a nearby Honda shop on a Saturday, brought it back and was able to go on our way. My wife stayed with the bike with the Good Samaritan's spouse. Strong stock, between the two of them. I insist that every intended feature on my bike works-as-intended. Either the rear fender hinges up or the bike lays over on its side on the crash bars.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    North Hills, CA and Pine Grove, CA
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    5,405

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    Quote Originally Posted by len dowe View Post
    Powder coat is your only answer.

    Never did I see the word "Restoration" in his post.
    No but his paying attention to the only correct color may have been a clue.
    Be sure to visit;
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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Daytona + Yankee Lake, NY
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    64

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    Any other factory pictures out there?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Haynes View Post
    The fenders were painted closed with the nuts and bolts in place. Why in the world would you put a chromed hinge on a restoration?
    Can't really tell what stage they're at in the photo. They may have been primed open, now being primed closed. Look at the vats of paint. Colors would not have been sprayed on an assembly rack. Two tones had to be masked ect. although I never opened a factory paint fender, I'm sure I wouldn't see bare metal.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    446

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    I think the answer is just enough paint to cover. Set a mask on the hinge and only remove for last coat of primer. Set a mask on and only remove for the last coat of paint. Same to make little circles of mask over rivet heads. Don't let them get buried under all the layers. This gives just enough paint to cover the hinge and rivets.
    Dan Margolien
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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jersey City
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    2,054

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    Come on Dan, They were in the business of building motorcycles as fast as they could get them off the line. Mask? No. The minute Surge finished spraying that fender it was gone and never to be heard from again.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    North Hills, CA and Pine Grove, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDoorn View Post
    Can't really tell what stage they're at in the photo. They may have been primed open, now being primed closed. Look at the vats of paint. Colors would not have been sprayed on an assembly rack. Two tones had to be masked ect. although I never opened a factory paint fender, I'm sure I wouldn't see bare metal.
    This picture was from 1939 where fenders were a solid color.
    Be sure to visit;
    http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
    Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
    Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/

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