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Thread: Linkert Carb low speed needle lift lever

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Austin, TX USA
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    Default Linkert Carb low speed needle lift lever

    My 1941 Sport Scout carb has a problem. When adjusting the low speed needle the ball bearing does not push hard enough against the knurled knob of the low speed needle to hold it from vibrating out of adjustment. When turning the needle I don't feel the clicking that I do on the high speed needle.
    Should I replace the low speed needle lift lever? Or replace the low speed needle? Or is it possible to replace the spring and ball bearing and how?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Central Illinois, USA
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    Repop levers are ugly, Lux!

    I remove the detente ball by welding a rod to it, and pulling.
    This preserves much of the original stake, and often a new spring and ball will snap in.

    You will need to make a fixture to hold it to restake otherwise.

    Beware the spring is unique.
    Too long, and the ball will bind; too short, and you are back where you started.

    Patience, and good luck!

    ....Cotten
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    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  3. #3
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    Thanks Cotton, I was thinking you would be the guy with the answer.
    I'll give this a try.
    Also I recieved my intake manifold for this bike back from you, it looks great and no leaks.
    In our emails to each other (my real name is Will Anglin) you mentioned that cad plating the parts was a lot of labor. I didn't try cad because of toxic warnings but, I did nickel plate these parts. Your right, the cleaning was a lot of work.

  4. #4
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    My "cad" on the manifold and nuts was okay, Will?

    Its easier, cheaper, and a lot faster.

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-29-2019 at 10:15 AM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  5. #5
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    I like your cad plating for sure, it's what the original finish was.
    When I was researching cad plating I saw a lot of warnings about toxicity. Thats why I chose nickel here at home. Maybe I should have done more research?

  6. #6
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    There's no cadmium in my "cad", Will!

    Its a fuel-proof isocyanate urethane dressing that is rubbed on.

    For nickel, I mix bronze powder into it.

    Then I put on my artist's beret and make it 'authentic'.

    ....Cotten
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  7. #7
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    Dude!!!! Everyone already knows your an artist, beret or not.
    Thanks for the tip, I'll start a search for a product like that.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by lux View Post
    Dude!!!! Everyone already knows your an artist, beret or not.
    Thanks for the tip, I'll start a search for a product like that.
    There's only one, Will,

    TNEMEC's Omnithane 530;
    I hope the formula hasn't changed...

    ...Cotten
    PS: Please don't call me 'dude';
    Sadly, I no longer fit the demographic.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  9. #9
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    I looked it up, it seems that they have discontinued that product but, they refer you to a product called V530 which seems to be the same thing.

    I tried something a little different to remove the ball bearing from the needle lift lever. I took a really small grinding stone with my drimmel tool. I gently touched the ball only and it spun around nicely removing thickness as it spun. I did this in several directions until the ball was small enough to just fall out. I'm not a great welder, so this seemed a smarter method for my skill set.

  10. #10
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    I've resorted to a diamond tool, Will,

    (When I couldn't flame one out.)

    I wished you patience and good luck,.. and it worked!

    ....Cotten
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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