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Thread: 48U – Linkert Bowl & Float Alignment

  1. #1
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    Default 48U – Linkert Bowl & Float Alignment

    I’m having trouble with fuel leaking from the bowl (M51 setup) on a ‘48U. Carb has the brass float and round steel tipped needle in brass seat (single square-type hole machined in seat tube for fuel delivery). I have pulled apart a dozen times, reassembled, only to have fuel run out carb throat & vent hole backing the venturi. I’ve tried the rubber-tipped needle and rubber ducky float as well same issue. I successfully stopped leaking (original components) and after rebuilding I let her sit over night (bowl full & shut off rod closed) – no leaks or wet carb/bowl the next morning. I rode to a watering hole (18 miles away – 7/8 full tanks) and parked her – no leaks down or sitting. On the way home, she lost power and I look down at carb and fuel was running out of the carb, even pissing out the small vent hole in brass cap over the needle/inlet like Old Faithful. I think my float is hanging up on the carb body through the float (yep, the float screw was tight).

    I followed the float set-up with the offset (attachment). I assume float offset setup is same for both OHV and SV? I’ve checked for leakage (bowl upside down and could not suck air through the inlet fitting). The U has a lot going on under the carb (spark advance cable, speedo cable, tank shift rod, fuel filter/inlet line and cylinder fins) so there’s not much room to rotate the bowl. Anyone know where the sweet spot is for fuel inlet alignment?
    Thanks,
    William
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    William Edwards, AMCA #10035

    Attend the 2019 Southern National Meet at Denton Farmpark, NC, 17-18 May 2019
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  2. #2
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    Wideglide38; If you have a Kokesh brass float, the setting is different than stock. They are heavier than the cork float. Attached is the setting that came with the Kokesh floats. If your float is Taiwan, then check your float. I have seen many pin holes in them.
    Craigimage0.jpg

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 41craig View Post
    Wideglide38; If you have a Kokesh brass float, the setting is different than stock. They are heavier than the cork float. Attached is the setting that came with the Kokesh floats. If your float is Taiwan, then check your float. I have seen many pin holes in them.
    Craigimage0.jpg
    Wow Craig!

    The float looks upside down!
    (Shouldn't it at least be level?)

    Kokesh's were ~13g, and Eversure's (DIXIE) were ~11g, and OEM was ~3g.

    Brass floats don't.

    ....Cotten
    PS: William!

    With any float, the only way to set up the bowl with certainty is if you have both carb body and bowl in hand, so you can invert it for the suck test.

    With a sidevalve model, the pivotnut screw will need to be at the end of the lever slot, and the float often offset as far as possible to leave at least an eighth of inch of clearance with the side of the bowl.
    (Slop in the lever upon its pin is another issue.)

    Note also, the bowl should be indexed with the valve portion under the power needle, or closer to the choke assembly when possible.
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    Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-26-2019 at 12:56 PM.
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  4. #4
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    Cotten; I'm guessing that Kokesh didn't employ any of Rembrandt's offspring to draw the float bowl.
    Craig

  5. #5
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    I never got a Kokesh to work above 3/8" without running over.
    They also lasted about 4 yrs max before they got pinholes.

  6. #6
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    Thanks Guys for all the good comments & advice.

    Craig - not sure source of brass float. It’s not heavy with fuel or sloshing. Looks soldered well.

    Cotten - Thanks, makes sense testing carb/bowl together. I was lazy & didn’t wanna pull the carb. Float level was set at 5/16” since I knew it was heavier than cork. Float screw was set in center of lever hole and (roughly) 3/64th offset. For indexing, I had heard same at/under the power needle; my problem is the straight shift rod down to the trans prohibits placing fuel inlet under or near the power needle. Maybe I have the wrong rod.

    Mark - appreciate the height. Need to set my float no less than 3/8”.
    William Edwards, AMCA #10035

    Attend the 2019 Southern National Meet at Denton Farmpark, NC, 17-18 May 2019
    http://www.amcasouthernnationalmeet.com/

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 41craig View Post
    Cotten; I'm guessing that Kokesh didn't employ any of Rembrandt's offspring to draw the float bowl.
    Craig
    It must have been the inspiration, Craig,...

    For all the Tedd "beanpots" on ebay with the float upside down.

    (Its bad enough that they think its an HD bowl!)

    Quote Originally Posted by duffeycycles View Post
    I never got a Kokesh to work above 3/8" without running over.
    They also lasted about 4 yrs max before they got pinholes.
    And Duffey!

    I never found a Kokesh that 'pinholed', but plenty of Dixies.
    And then there were those productions where the screw wasn't sealed.

    The real mystery is why anyone would produce nitrophyll floats that are just as heavy!
    (Shown on the bottom of my D-port display; I've a horseshoe Schebler float on the bench that is only a modest twice as heavy as it should be...)

    The age-old question: If you're going to the trouble to make something, why not make it right?

    Quote Originally Posted by wideglide38 View Post
    Thanks Guys for all the good comments & advice.

    Craig - not sure source of brass float. It’s not heavy with fuel or sloshing. Looks soldered well.

    Cotten - Thanks, makes sense testing carb/bowl together. I was lazy & didn’t wanna pull the carb. Float level was set at 5/16” since I knew it was heavier than cork. Float screw was set in center of lever hole and (roughly) 3/64th offset. For indexing, I had heard same at/under the power needle; my problem is the straight shift rod down to the trans prohibits placing fuel inlet under or near the power needle. Maybe I have the wrong rod.

    Mark - appreciate the height. Need to set my float no less than 3/8”.
    WLA folks always face the shift rod issue, William!

    But I set up a '41 UL no problem.

    When you have the assembly off for certainty, you may find that you have to relieve the bowlstem to allow indexing at 90° to the body.
    I use a dry-erase marker to find the interference.

    You'd save yourself grief, as well as fuel mileage and overall performance, by putting that brass boatanchor on the wall.

    ....Cotten
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    Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-26-2019 at 06:23 PM.
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  8. #8
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    I dont rely on any method to determine final fuel level,not float level,other than holding a piece of gasket paper over the stem hole while the disconnected bowl is in my hand,connected to the fuel line.
    Open petcock and flow, fuel level and any seat leakage,slowly rising level, can be can be observed.Then with level proper and holding you can install and index.
    Tom

  9. #9
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    One way i have used before is to remove the drain plug, install a barbed hose fitting with a piece of clear hose. Tie the hose so it is above the carb, then turn of the fuel.
    This will show you the rate of filling, plus the actual fuel level when the carb is completely assembled.
    Is the float level set on a side stand or upright, if you do it on a bike?
    Cheers,
    Mick

  10. #10
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    C'mon Folks,...

    What fuel level do you use, and how do you accurately measure it?

    I found that it "leaps" up to a dial caliper, and reproduceability is nil.

    So I made a sight gauge, and found that surface tension affected it too!

    ....Cotten
    PS: I need somebody to 3-D print me a clear body and bowl.
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    Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-26-2019 at 04:01 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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