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Thread: VL Trans rebuild

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,305

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    Dear All, don't forget that sealed bearings moves the gearbox mainshaft relative to the clutch, so you will probably need a new 2500-19 thrust washer under the clutch hub bearing. Harley made this in 0.006" size increments so must have thought it important. Too thin allows for wobbly clutch, two thick binds the clutch drum and drags the clutch after rebuild, which is even more annoying.

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Seymour,CT
    Posts
    8

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    Itís not the width thatís different. The original bearing race is not centered,there is some offset If you measure from inner race to outside face of threaded retainer on original vrs installed 6304 bearing you will see the difference

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    172

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    Right, got it now thanks. My g'box came in pieces so I never had the original bearing to compare to the sealed one. I went back and looked at Grumpa's photo in post #50 and you can sorta see how the inner sits off centre to the outer.

    I'd be interested in the details of your new washer if your able to share it? I'm sure others would as well.

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Seymour,CT
    Posts
    8

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    970D4E2F-B38D-4D25-BBB2-4977F88012B8.jpgtook me a while to figure out how to make this work
    Bottom left and right are homade stamps. On retainer is stamped washer. I just finished another VL Tranny today,same issues. Hope this helps. Ray

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    172

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    Thanks Ray,
    Very much appreciated.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    86

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    This is a great thread! Lots of hidden tips for the VL trans. I recently put new sealed bearings in my transmission and also replaced the clutch plates but I'm having a hard time shifting in to first or second from an idle. Once the bike is moving the rest of the up/down shifting is fine. When at an idle though, trying to get into first requires a lot of moving the bike back and forth and double clutching to finally get it to go without grinding. I notice that even after adjusting the clutch that the bike is still noticeably harder to push when the clutch has been released than when the bike is in neutral and the clutch engaged. From reading this post I'm thinking my thrust washer is too thick and causing some additional drag?

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Seymour,CT
    Posts
    8

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    That’s usually the problem when they won’t go into gear without grinding. Replace thrust washer with thinner one or grind .005 thousandth off.

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    172

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    Hi Ray,

    I sent you a PM a couple of months back. Just wondering if it got to you?

    Peter

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    86

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 34VLRay View Post
    That’s usually the problem when they won’t go into gear without grinding. Replace thrust washer with thinner one or grind .005 thousandth off.
    Thanks for the insight 34VLRay, Ill give it a try

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    86

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sny View Post
    Thanks for the insight 34VLRay, Ill give it a try
    Follow up for future reference:
    A thinner thrust washer along with light filing and cleanup of the drive disc hub side fixed my problem shifting into first.

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