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Thread: VL primary oil

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Virginia Beach VA
    Posts
    90

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Slocombe View Post
    The usual problem with bikes not used regularly is oil passing the hand pump check valve into the cases, then being blown out when the bike is first started. Disconnect the hand oil line to check
    Steve, that was exactly the case. I disconnected the line and found a steady leak. Replaced the check valve with a stand in until I can get this one fixed. Tested and checked good so far, here's a pic of the trail prior to replacement: IMG_1804.jpg Now no trail and no puddle after sitting for an hour:IMG_1805.jpgIMG_1806.jpg Honestly I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't drain the crankcase and put in the correct amount of oil before I took it out but my only excuse is that I was too excited about getting it on the road after being on the bench for a year.
    I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Virginia Beach VA
    Posts
    90

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Slocombe View Post
    Today most VL engines are freshly rebuilt, with oil rings on the pistons and the chain oiler turned down low or off, so the bikes will overoil at the factory marked pump settings. First check the oil pumps are set correctly, just wide open with throttle wide open, then trim back the mechanical oil pump a bit at a time as you gain experience going for a ride then draining the crankcases on return. I find the pumps OK at 4-6 mm, say just under a quarter inch on the low side of the factory settings, but these will be well used components so you need to figure out the settings yourself. Of course oil is cheap compared to engine rebuilds, so I don't mind cases slowly filling over a day.
    As far as I can tell, this engine has never been apart. It doesn't smoke (unless some moron has started it with a crankcase full of oil due to a leaky check valve) and I've had it for at least 25 years. All that to say you are providing insights that I never would have considered and that's why I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge. We're not worthy lol.
    I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,120

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    Thanks for the nice words. I can't think of any other 80+ year old bike that is so much fun as an every day rider.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    9

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    It took me 2500 miles to get my VL set up to satisfaction. By the time I finished the 14 CB it was using a gallon of oil per 850-900 miles and getting 33MPG on fuel. When I started I had oil coming outa everywhere. I just kept taking washers out and adjusting the Throttle actuated setting on the oil pump. I would allow around a hundred miles or so for it to "Clean out" before adjusting again...by the time I had 4000 miles on her, she was perfect. I had several guys advising me along the way. John Stanley, Robert Hernandez, and Rich Duda were very helpful. I still ride her on occasion and it never lets me down. I was told VL meant ''very lubricated". I believe it means "Vibrating Lightly".......

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    440

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    Quote Originally Posted by riggpigg View Post
    I was told VL meant ''very lubricated". I believe it means "Vibrating Lightly".......
    HAHA!! I like that!
    Jim

    AMCA #6520

  6. #16

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    Any instructions for checking and rebuilding the oil tank check valve ?
    I have one that someone took the top square shaped piece from the top and also the spring under the top piece.
    Sorry no part #'s , I am work and the book is at home . Any and all responses are appreciated

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,120

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    I have those repair parts. For service, make sure the brass sleeve is not binding on the body as it moves and, particularly, make sure you have a good seal where the check ball seats in the body. Occasional leaks come from paint or rust flakes in the oil lodging under the ball, but permanent leaks come after corrosion of the seat surface. Use a fresh ball bearing, then solder the old one to a piece of copper tube and use it to lap in the seat. A sharp rap with a punch should settle the new ball in the cleaned-up seat and give an airtight seal.

  8. #18

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    Thank you for the very valuable information on the hand pump check valve Steve. I have a hopefully functioning check valve, and I can now attempt to repair the one with missing items .

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