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Thread: Rocker Arm Cover Pad

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    Sarasota, Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubone View Post
    Just make sure they are clean. Intake only.
    Why intake only, Robbie?
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  2. #12
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    Aug 2004
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    Beautiful Northern New Mexico
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    The intakes were what starved for oil, the exhausts often were over oiled. It is a design and gravity thing..
    Robbie Knight Amca #2736

  3. #13
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    Sep 2005
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    Thanks, Robbie. I always appreciate your knowledge, and that you share it.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssantelman View Post
    Any tips on the oiler tubes? I have what appear to be original equipment that direct oil over the rocker-arm valve stem interface.
    The ball in the end of the tube regulates the oil flow. It should move freely. The tubes and ball can get clogged with oil, rust, and previous owner mischief, i.e. crimping the tube end and seizing the ball....I've had to correct this before.
    I use jet drills and high tensile wire from hobby shops to gently work out impurities and get them squeaky clean.
    A good code of practice is to bench test them before fitting to the heads.
    Steve Little
    Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
    Australia.
    AMCA member 1950

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    18

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    The steel balls are free in the tubes above the crimps. Both are lined up over the end of intake valve stem.

    Would it be considered sacrilege to use Permatex on the paper gasket between the Head and the Rocker cover? Not sure if the D Ring will pull it flat. The D Rings I have are steel, 0.220" (5.6 mm) thick. These may be for a later year engine but may keep the bleeding to a minimum.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Ohio
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    540

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    Take the time to make sure your covers are as flat as possible. Bend, dolly, twist, file, whatever it takes to get them flat, time spent now will be appreciated later. Try Yamabond or Yamalube, could be sacrilege to use Yamaha gasket sealer. But its like the felt glue, whatever works best for you. I would stay away from the cork gaskets.
    Bob Rice #6738
    He that conquereth his own soul is greater than he who taketh a city.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigLakeBob View Post

    Steve, I bought some of the aftermarket oilers. I have not used them, but like most aftermarket they look pretty cheesy compared to original. I'll check later to see how they fit on the studs and let you know.
    Thanks Bob.
    Look forward to product appraisal
    Steve Little
    Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
    Australia.
    AMCA member 1950

  8. #18
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    Jul 2010
    Location
    Ohio
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    Sorry for the delay Steve, also tried to add a picture by using insert image for the 3rd different post and was refused again, sorry. Why does it have to be so hard to add a picture? Anyway Steve, after another look not as cheesy as I first thought. The unit fits on the studs just fine. I would say made from some mild steel and plated a white zinc or chrome. It has the oil groove running down from the front stud to the tube. Like all oilers it will need bent for the correct height from the arm. The main difference I see but probably won't matter is, the original has a flat crimp to hold the ball with about an 1/8" diameter hole for the oil to exit, the aftermarket has a round or conical crimp to hold the ball with about an 3/32" hole. Overall length of the tube is pretty close to orig. Thickness of bracket is about the same. Not a bad unit overall, sorry for the initial poor rating. I would say worth buying if you don't have oem. Tedd # 11-0530 front, 11-0531 rear.
    Bob Rice #6738
    He that conquereth his own soul is greater than he who taketh a city.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigLakeBob View Post
    Sorry for the delay Steve, also tried to add a picture by using insert image for the 3rd different post and was refused again, sorry. Why does it have to be so hard to add a picture? Anyway Steve, after another look not as cheesy as I first thought. The unit fits on the studs just fine. I would say made from some mild steel and plated a white zinc or chrome. It has the oil groove running down from the front stud to the tube. Like all oilers it will need bent for the correct height from the arm. The main difference I see but probably won't matter is, the original has a flat crimp to hold the ball with about an 1/8" diameter hole for the oil to exit, the aftermarket has a round or conical crimp to hold the ball with about an 3/32" hole. Overall length of the tube is pretty close to orig. Thickness of bracket is about the same. Not a bad unit overall, sorry for the initial poor rating. I would say worth buying if you don't have oem. Tedd # 11-0530 front, 11-0531 rear.
    Thanks for the excellent review. I wasn't in a rush.
    Regards Steve
    Steve Little
    Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
    Australia.
    AMCA member 1950

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Beautiful Northern New Mexico
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    2,176

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    The only issue I can think of on the repop is the circular crimp would lend itself to the ball seating in it and not allowing the oil to pass. It seems the OEM type with the flat crimp would better prevent the ball from sticking and cutting off the flow.
    Robbie Knight Amca #2736

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