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Thread: 1941 FL Fuel Shut-off

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Fort Mill, SC
    Posts
    9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rollo View Post
    Carl Olsen (Carl's Cycle Supply) for sure sells the peek tipped rod assembly and I have installed 4 on my bikes and they work great. You don't need to crank down too hard as the peek material seals well. Also you might want to make sure your needle and seat and float are functioning properly. Especially check the amount of play between the fingers on the float lever and the needle top. Check and set that before you set the float height or your never going to get it right. I used to go in the garage and smelled of gas all the time. Not so now!
    Carl sells the kit for around $100 but everything is brand new and includes the fuel valve, brass washers, peek tipped rod and shut off cap. All you need to do is remove your old stuff and replace it with the new and instead of the screw to hold the cap install your knob. You'll be glad to did!

    Tom (Rollo) Hardy
    AMCA #12766
    Thank you sir! I do also have issue with the carb I need to get sorted.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Central Illinois, USA
    Posts
    3,222

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    Quote Originally Posted by RichO View Post
    Not if the seat is bad! Carl's is complete and does the job.
    The OEM seat is soft brass, Rich...

    The OEM shaft tip is steel.

    Its your money. Spend away!

    ....Cotten
    PS: Wanna buy some PEEK?
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 10-08-2017 at 06:05 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    530

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rollo View Post
    Carl sells the kit for around $100 but everything is brand new and includes the fuel valve, brass washers, peek tipped rod and shut off cap.
    Carl's Cycle supply quoted me $225 for a peek set back in 2014. Maybe prices are lower today?
    William Edwards, AMCA #10035

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    392

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    I bought mine form him at Oley a couple of years ago and some friends just bought some at Wauseon this year and they were $100.

    Tom (Rollo) Hardy
    AMCA #12766

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    253

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    That's all well and good Tom if one of the issues isn't something went between the two and scored the seat.
    DrSprocket

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Central Illinois, USA
    Posts
    3,222

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    Quote Originally Posted by RichO View Post
    That's all well and good Tom if one of the issues isn't something went between the two and scored the seat.
    If you need a whole new assembly, Go for it Rich!

    Most of us like to fix what we got;
    Five minutes on a lathe does wonders for the vast majority, I assure you.

    If your seat is that tragic, you could always do a flat-cut on the seat with a stone or endmill to relieve the damage, but I've never had the need.
    (Once, however, I did encounter one that leaked around the seat insert. Diabolical.)

    ...Cotten
    PS: Carl certainly deserves an applaud for providing hardware for those who need a bolt-on replacement assembly, particularly in light of the horrible quality of Tedd's!
    I have been a customer of Carl's, and he of I, for a long, long time.

    PPS: PEEK for sale. PEEK for sale. Get it before it goes on ebay...
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 10-09-2017 at 12:38 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  7. #17

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    The latest from Carls is different.The one I got before that looked like a modified tedds.the hole for the reserve was higher than OEM on the Tedds one.The new one is in OEM location.The Tedds has a nylon seat.Do not overtighten for best results.I tested several recently with low air pressure under water,the new one from Carl barely needed tightening an held very nice.Looks nice also

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Central Illinois, USA
    Posts
    3,222

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    By the way Folks,

    I've been cutting the pesky 62085-40 petcock seals from PEEK for years. And viton 62094-40 top seals too.

    Sorry for the shameless self-promotion, especially since I sold out of them at Davenport!

    ....Cotten
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Fort Mill, SC
    Posts
    9

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    Cotten,

    I like the idea of touching the tips on the lathe. How about the length of the rod? When my shut-off is completely shut, the top of the knob is flush with the top of the rod. Will the rod have enough length to seal again? I assume so, but what can I expect with regard to the top knobs?

    Thanks,
    Sam
    Last edited by eubanks; 10-09-2017 at 02:49 PM.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Central Illinois, USA
    Posts
    3,222

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    Quote Originally Posted by eubanks View Post
    Cotten,

    I like the idea of touching the tips on the lathe. How about the length of the rod? When my shut-off is completely shut, the top of the knob is flush with the top of the rod. Will the rod have enough length to seal again? I assume so, but what can I expect with regard to the top knobs?

    Thanks,
    Sam
    Sam!

    As always, you are at the mercy of your own observations.
    (Without it in my hands I have no clue, and that's just another reason why I am turning away new accounts.)
    I've never encountered an issue, but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen,.. if you really have a heavy cut with the lathe!

    The problem wouldn't be the fit of the knob to the rod, as that doesn't change. But bottoming out the knob on the 62091-40 seal cap is possible, I 'spose.
    Particularly if your 62085-40 seals are too fat (I used fat Linkert bowlnut crushwashers for years, no problem..), but more likely if there really is an issue, the tanks have been distorted in a repair, or attempt to align the petcock. ('65s suffered most.)

    Good luck!

    ...Cotten
    PS: I am reminded Folks,..
    That after cutting the tip, I would always tighten the seat upon the rod firmly with socket a few times, while held in the chuck.
    This usually formed the seat satisfactorily.
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 10-10-2017 at 09:40 AM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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