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Thread: 32 VL Build

  1. #11


    Ok, I'm back, lets see if I can remember how to do the pictures. I bought a primary cover that needed work so follow along.

    The baffle was toast so I drilled the spot welds out and made a new one.

    The inner lip at the bottom is bent at a right angle, the old primary chain chewed it off so I sheared a sliver and welded it on.

    As you can see these mounting brackets needed work so I cut the bad out and welded new metal in and remounted the brackets.

    I gotta admit, I'm pretty darn good at this.

    Chit, I riveted it in upside down. Next time dummy do a better job fitting up before you make it permanent.

    That's better....after a bunch of wasted time.

  2. #12


    The baffle welded back in and painted inside. beaded and coated with a phosphate solution that neutralizes rust and keeps it from rusting again and helps paint adhesion, you can handle it all you want and it won't rust. Ok, that's enough for awhile.

  3. #13


    Huh, my first wife said I never finished anything.

    I got the rivets today and thanks to "low down A" I got the measurements. Done!!

  4. #14


    If I remember correctly these primary covers were 21 or 22 gauge, the two areas that I cut out and the baffle I made out of 18 gauge, mainly because that was what I had but where the two mounting brackets were you always see them welded or brazed or bolted back on because the metal was thin and weak. Thank you for the positive feedback, I make mistakes too and I hope by my mistakes we all learn either through trial and error or someone that has done it right before and showing us how to do it right, never too old to teach an old dog new tricks, hence the bracket riveted on upside down.

  5. #15


    Ok, I'm back...I spent two days sorting, finding and glass beading parts to send off to get cad plated. 80 pieces 15 pounds worth, I'm glad they charge by the pound and not the piece. I won't tell you where I am sending them, if they come back really nice I will give them a commercial, if not...well I just won't say anything.

    I think I got everything, I did find a few pieces that need parkerized yet.

  6. #16

  7. #17


    Well the last couple days I have been working on the cases, the main bushing was worn so I replaced it. As you can see it is pinned half way on the bushing and half way on the case to keep it from spinning I guess. I didn't know if I could hit the same hole in the case so I drilled another one. My cases were really nice and the numbers match, I had originally glass beaded the outer cam case and hind sight being 20-20 I wished I never did, I should have kept the original patina but late.

    I decided to use Glyptol to coat the inside of the case and cam chest, I did some research on it and there are pro's and con's, it looks cool but you will never see it when it is all together.

  8. #18


    I cleaned out the oil pump and thank goodness everything is there, I would hate to have to find parts for this puppy.

    You can see the three holes where the springs and cylinders go in, once it is installed in the body the plug goes in the end.

    The plungers go on top of the springs then it is slid into the body and the plug screwed in, there is a very tiny hole that oils the back of the rotating cylinder where it rides on the plug.

    The plungers go on top of the springs then it is slid into the body and the plug screwed in, there is a very tiny hole that oils the back of the rotating cylinder where it rides on the plug.

    I have the jugs at the machine shop getting bored and a sleeve and valve job, I need some gaskets and a shaft and I can start putting this together.
    I got ripped off on flea bay... say it ain't so...I bought a NOS rod shaft, original box and correct number, only problem is it is .005 under. I should have mic'd it when I got it but I probably would not have gotten my money back anyways and when you ask them they know nothing. Except a real famous guy in the antique motorcycle world, he had a NOS "VL" pinion and sprocket shaft on flea bay, when I asked him how he knew his answer was "I just know" when I matched it up with my original to his and checked his against other ones, his fit an RL, the keys are 180* apart. I asked him about that and wouldn't it through the timing off 180*, no answer.

  9. #19


    So it took less than an hour to replace the rollers in my lifters, I just used a drill bit the same size as the shaft and drilled one of the peened ends and knocked it out with a punch. Drive the new pin home after you put in the new roller in of course and I used a large punch with a 45* (why don't they make a degree symbol on the computer) tip and then peened it down with the hammer and used a chisel and wacked each end as was done by the factory. The lifter boss on both sides is chamfered so when you peen it down it mushrooms down in and won't/can't come out, simple as pie.

    Oh, I painted the oil pump.

  10. #20


    What do you all think, should I replace these lifter adjusters or grind them down? I think I am out of hardness.

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