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Thread: 32 VL Build

  1. #21

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    Well this took a long time to bring all of this over from Classic Iron Forum, next I will work on being able to post the pictures so you don't have to click on the link. Be back soon.....

  2. #22

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    I need to figure how to bring pictures over from Image Shack or from my computer.

    OK I think I got it, I need to change it to HTDML and copy and paste.
    This is the stuff I use after I sandblast a part, it keeps the part from rusting, it can sit in the garage for years and be handled as much as you want and wont rust. It neutralizes the rust that you don't remove while blasting and turns it black. It is also a phosphorus coating that helps with paint adhesion. I love this stuff, it goes a very long way and what you don't use you can put back in the jug. This stuff is actually to good to be true, I have been using it for years with no problems. No, I don't have stock in it.
    Last edited by no6; 07-06-2017 at 08:48 AM.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by no6 View Post
    Well this took a long time to bring all of this over from Classic Iron Forum, next I will work on being able to post the pictures so you don't have to click on the link. Be back soon.....
    Hey thanks for posting! Great to see your progress

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by sny View Post
    Hey thanks for posting! Great to see your progress
    Thank you, it's going to be tough to keep two forums going but I can reach more people that way and hopefully get the help I need and others will learn as well.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Posts
    500

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    where do you get this product, I could use it so save cleaned items until I get to paint them
    Kevin Valentine 13
    EX-Chief Judge

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by kval View Post
    where do you get this product, I could use it so save cleaned items until I get to paint them
    I think this might be it
    http://lightningstrip.us/rust.htm

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by WebKahuna View Post
    I think this might be it
    http://lightningstrip.us/rust.htm
    That is the place, it used to be Berts Lightning remover. When I sand blast or glass bead I apply it, it dry's depending on the temperature and humidity, I will wipe off the excess and when it dry's it is a light gray, it's amazing sometimes the little black specks you see, rust you missed but it is neutralized. You can handle it all you want without gloves, it does not rust. Depending on how much was put on you may see some white powder or excess black, I always sand or wire brush the residue off before body work or DP primer. I have never had a problem with it. Only one time did it rust, I sandblasted a Model A deck lid, treated it and a year or two later took it to the Carlisle flea market to sell, it laid out in the rain then it did rust.

  8. #28

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    As promised an advertisement if they did a good job, Colorado Plating, $150 with shipping, super nice job and very nice people to deal with.



    I put the distributor together, make sure that you take pictures before you take it apart because you can put it together different ways and that will change the timing.

    OK, I'm done for now I have to pack for Sturgis!!

  9. #29

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    Update: I'm getting everything that gets black ready to paint, hope to get it painted this week. My cylinders are at the machine shop getting a sleeve, I used a Case 152 tractor sleeve, it needs shortened but it is almost stock bore. All of the threads are bad and Harley used a 7/6 x 16 TPI bolt, a kit to do them is $190, no way am I paying that. What my machinist does is use a cast iron pipe plug, drills the hole then threads it and puts the plug in, mills it flush and re threads it, he has been doing that for years, I got him a tap on Amazon. WHAT HAPPENED TO MY PICTURES?

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