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Thread: 1966 Shovel engine rebuild

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Central Illinois, USA
    Posts
    3,168

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    Steve!

    I have four grades of Clover compound, and even the 6-A would not improve a wide seat.
    Just like a poppet valve, a narrow seat seals best, so a flat grind approaches an ideal sharp line upon the surface of the ball.

    The tools, with the exception of the the flat stone on the left, were all failures.
    Although the ball burnisher on the right improved some, particularly aluminum bodies, it proved disastrous on some chilled cast iron bodies.

    I lost a lot of time and a considerable investment on that particular cranial flatulence.

    ....Cotten
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. Australia
    Posts
    810

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    cranial flatulence. he he

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    Oil hole to the bottom of the timer shaft.

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    Steve Little
    Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
    Australia.
    AMCA member 1950

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Central Illinois, USA
    Posts
    3,168

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    Steve!

    You've got an aluminum pump.

    That's one more reason to avoid lapping the seat.

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 07-18-2017 at 09:01 AM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. Australia
    Posts
    810

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    Thanks Tom.

    A couple of the sealing flanges of the push rod tubes needed attention.
    The picture might not be picking it up but the flanges are dented and may not seal to the corks.
    This happens when an owner pries a screw driver under the flange when the cover is hard to slide up.

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    I have male and female mandrels to slide over the tubes which allows me to press the flange straight.
    Fitted the inner tubes in the tool gave it some liberal pressure in the small garage press. No more wrinkles.

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    After straightening the flanges I buffed the rust off the inner tubes to make them nice and smooth, so the cork wont bind on the rust when retracting the covers.

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    The gear cover had custom studs and chrome acorn nuts which is pictured to the left of the shot on the cover.
    I replaced them with a cadmium Colony replacement screws kit.
    Dabbed the head of each new screw with some lapping paste and then a light lap into the holes.
    This settles out any high spots or scaring from previous builds, and allows the taper of the screw head to match the hole and maintain even pressure on the cover.
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    Pre loaded the pinion shaft with oil before fitting the cap head screw. I keep pumping oil until it comes up the side of the con rods

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    Steve Little
    Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
    Australia.
    AMCA member 1950

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. Australia
    Posts
    810

    Default

    Hi.
    Can anyone identify this oil pump.
    I would like to buy some gaskets for it, but it is out of my knowledge range.
    The date stamp says it was made in 1995. Is it a Evo pump or just a reproduction pump?

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    Steve Little
    Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
    Australia.
    AMCA member 1950

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Central Illinois, USA
    Posts
    3,168

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Little View Post
    ...Pre loaded the pinion shaft with oil before fitting the cap head screw. I keep pumping oil until it comes up the side of the con rods...
    Steve!

    I found that pre-oiling risks oil drooling back out to foul gasket surfaces, unless you can assemble quickly.
    (And I always smeared everything with a film of petrolatum anyway.)

    So immediately prior to firing the motor, I would attach a charging bottle of oil to the pump inlet and push in about a half o' quart with low air pressure.

    You never know how long a motor might sit before it sees duty.

    ....Cotten
    Attached Images Attached Images
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. Australia
    Posts
    810

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    Thanks Tom.
    No drooling or sullied gaskets to report.

    Found the spring posts on the distributor head were wobbling and rotating.
    This kind of shenanigans isn't good for a fast response of advance and retard.
    Disassembled the distributor, supported the head of each post on the vise, and gave the flare a bit of light hammering with a flat punch. It took a few goes until the posts tightened up nicely. Lubed the shaft with engine oil, put all the parts back together and greased the pivot points in the weights.

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    Steve Little
    Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
    Australia.
    AMCA member 1950

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. Australia
    Posts
    810

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    Thought I should tidy up this thread and sign off on this one.
    I can see why the chopper guys favored these engines.
    When everything is stripped away, they are nice to look at.
    Thanks for the contributions and ideas.

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    Steve Little
    Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
    Australia.
    AMCA member 1950

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    25

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    Steve, thank you for taking us along and documenting the rebuild. I enjoyed it.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. Australia
    Posts
    810

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    Thanks nuklhd..
    Delivering the engine tomorrow and helping the guy fit it.
    Just remembered why I don't do this for a living...nervous butterflies and thoughts of ...did I do everything right??
    Show time tomorrow.
    Steve Little
    Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
    Australia.
    AMCA member 1950

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