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Thread: 101 Scout... going to take a while

  1. #71

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    So I stand corrected. I just took mine apart. The nut pushes on the sprocket, the sprocket pushes on a 0.005 shim, the shim pushes on the spacer, the spacer pushes on the bearing and the bearing pushes back on the face of the drive gear. So the total width of the bearing, spacer, shim and sprocket is too wide on yours or something is in the way.

    Dana

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vermont
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    742

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    Thanks Dana, very helpful! I'm going to proceed by using Tom's idea to adjust the depth of the spacer collar.

    The sprocket will seat fully into the splines (needs to be tapped on lightly to fully seat), but without the collar the nut will fully thread onto the driver:



    ..and when I view the spacer and bearing together on the bench there is simply not enough length in the sprocket driver gear to accommodate the sprocket, spacer, and bearing while allowing the nut to fully thread on the outside:



    My mistake was not making note of how it was assembled originally...it could have been wrong from the start, maybe a new sprocket driver gear was put in (it looks to be in very good shape!)

    Thanks all for looking!
    Pisten Bulley is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    481

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    Hey Harry,looks like your figuring it out.You made a good point about align.I think your collar or driver must have been off almost 1/4".
    If you have the correct collar that puts the sprocket in proper alignment with the rear then you have the wrong driver.
    You may want to check with the lower end and trans in the frame with rear wheel before you cut down your new spacer.
    Thats the way the nut should look with the lock tab installed.
    Tom
    Last edited by tfburke3; 10-08-2019 at 09:36 AM.

  4. #74

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    My bearing is 0.374", My spacer is 0.570" and the sprocket is 0.233". I'm not able to get to the gear right now. Hope this helps.
    Dana

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Vermont
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    742

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    Quote Originally Posted by d_lasher View Post
    My bearing is 0.374", My spacer is 0.570" and the sprocket is 0.233". I'm not able to get to the gear right now. Hope this helps.
    Dana
    Dana, that is awesome! So my spacer is also .570, my bearing is .394, but my sprocket is .276 on the splines. I didn't consider the sprocket (of course!) and I noticed that Greer sprockets are flat on one side and dished on the other, this sprocket is dished on both sides. If I can pick up .04 with a different sprocket it can only help! Thanks again!
    Pisten Bulley is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

  6. #76
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vermont
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    742

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    Quote Originally Posted by tfburke3 View Post
    You may want to check with the lower end and trans in the frame with rear wheel before you cut down your new spacer.
    Thats the way the nut should look with the lock tab installed.
    That's where I was headed Tom, finally fitting the engine/gearbox into the frame with the wheel to see how everything lines up. The kicker stud that was in there originally was offset and brazed in place, so I know I'll have to deal with that, too! BTW, there isn't a lock tab washer on the sprocket side on this one, only on the clutch sprocket nut
    Pisten Bulley is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    481

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    Suprised at no lock tab,but I never had a101.I would still put one there.I guess its same as chief.
    Those nuts are prone to loosening even with the tab and I use red locktite just to be sure.
    Enjoying your build,keep posting.
    Tom

  8. #78

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    I managed to get the drive gear out tonight. It’s 1.196” from the bearing face to the face of the nut when it’s tighten down ‘hand tight’.

    AB24C38F-9A6B-46FD-B846-79F9326DAF9B.jpg

    Good luck

  9. #79
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    742

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    I'm continuing to mock things up to make sure everything goes together, and each new piece added creates a new challenge! I finally finessed, wrangled, and persuaded the front fender to fit and immediately found another issue. I was aware that the frame down tubes in front were bent, I had measured the wheelbase earlier and came up about 3/4" short, but the tank fit and the fender fit...or so I thought.

    Discovered that the fender, with the original full length stays in place barely cleared the frame:



    And I was already aware of where the problem lay, the down tubes into the fork neck were bent backwards a bit:



    So I straightened them:



    ... and now the tank and the fender both fit correctly!
    Last edited by pisten-bully; 11-06-2019 at 02:55 PM.
    Pisten Bulley is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
    Posts
    4,165

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    Nothing like the miracle of hydraulics, Harry. Brilliant solution to a nasty problem. I love your build thread, and the work you have done, and the documentation, and pictures you have taken the time, and trouble to post for us.
    Last edited by exeric; 11-06-2019 at 12:03 PM.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

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