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Thread: New vintage Indian owner needs a bit of help from the experts!

  1. #11

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    Howdy sir,

    Really not necessary to remove anything but one of the case screws, by pumping oil into any one of those galleries to the mains you are pressurizing the entire system back to the oil pump gears. Any oil finding its way past those gears to the draw tube will not be retained but drain back to the sump. The upside though is you have primed your pump, essentially sealing off any minute air gaps so it can quickly draw oil once the motor has started. The downside, if pre-lubing results in your motor turning more freely prior to starting it for the first time (where rings bedding in may free it up), you likely have binding at the main bearings from misalignment.

    Will second the mention of possibly motor binding at the mag drive. Whereas distributor models will tolerate misalignment - though the bushing will wear out prematurely, that based on how compliant the rubber connector used - mag models will destroy theirs in short order.

  2. #12

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    Good point, Peter. He also might want to pump oil in through the flywheel cap and the detent hole in the back, just so the gears and the clutch are lubricated since I don't believe he's had any oil in it at all.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    9

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    Thanks for all the comments. I took the bike out for a real easy, slow ride today. About 30 minutes and not more than about 2 miles. When the bike was warming up the oil pressure was right around 50. But after the engine was heated up the oil pressure gauge read between 15 and 20. My top speed was on the ride was maybe 25mph. 2nd gear most of the time and 3rd every now and then. Seeing the pressure was that low I cut the ride short and adjusted the pump by taking the cap screw off, loosening the lock screw and turning in the adjustment 1/2 turn clockwise. I haven't fired the engine up since adjusting the pump to see if it allowed for more flow.

    That pressure, even at that low of speed, seemed low to me. What do you think?

    Now that the engine has run I'm going to top off the oil again. It's just a tad below the full mark on the dip stick. It was mentioned it might be good to pump oil through the flywheel cap. Is that the cap behind the clutch cap? Can you describe where the detent hole in the back is. Sounds like I should make sure oil's shot in at that location as well.

    I noticed today the gear box was popping out of 1st and 2nd every now and then. Is this a characteristic of this transmission or is their some adjustment that might insure that the gear is fully engaged so it won't slip out of gear. It seems that this happened the most when I was on a slight incline on the road and under moderate acceleration, so clearly the gear isn't being fully engaged.

  4. #14

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    Howdy sir,

    With a Four without a documented build history it can become almost entirely about the clutch, after addressing a few cursory introductory details already mentioned here. If the builder did not focus on this component, from quality of throwout bearing to alignment of clutch fingers, reduction to 8 springs and a modern King or equivalent (Qua the best), then one has to pull the entire powerplant down to address that shortcoming or it becomes a total detraction from enjoying what these unique machines have to offer.
    Last edited by PRG; 02-12-2017 at 08:02 AM.

  5. #15

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    Howdy sir,

    Didn't reload browser before above comment.

    Oil pressure: that adjustment is merely pressing down on the spring bearing on the pressure relief ball check valve. If you truly had 50 psi cold that means you've got the headroom of 50 psi to operate with and adjusting it will only mean, say, 60 psi cold with the same drop off once hot. Worn pumps will exhibit this behavior. The factory set it at about 30 psi and a reasonably healthy engine will hold that or just below once warmed. The spread cold to hot effects the low speed pressure more, dictated by component health, while high speed remains the same as that's governed by the ball check valve. Therefore, at cold idle you may have 20 psi that drops to ten or a touch less once warm but the high speed stays the same. For modern riding conditions (extended road speed at higher rpm), builders today like between 40 - 50, but 30 will do fine on a solo machine in mixed riding conditions. I personally don't like high pressure on these for the mere sake of saying one has it. Though gear pumps, these pulse their output (that's why your oil guage has a carb jet like restrictor, to keep from wearing the needle linkage out) which rises in amplitude with pressure.

    Oil gauge: these are of the Bowden tube flex type with a small linkage connecting to the needle. After 80 something years, even a fresh-faced pretty one is not to be trusted on an unknown machine. Check it against a reliable source.

    Jumping out of 1st and 2nd gear. Common on Chiefs as they're only dog engaged on top but jumping out of first on a Four unusual as they are dog on 1st and third with 2nd being the only gear-to-gear as you can see in my 441 trans at the link below. By their design dog engagement is more secure as the faces are back tapered for which as torque rises only pulls them more securely together. This situation only deteriorates when those faces are hammered off through wear. Yes, you can adjust the tension, there's a bolt on top of your trans behind the shaft tower. Adjust very incrementally as too much compression will not only cause sudden grab and release when trying to move the shift lever, over time it'll also cut a groove in the shaft.

    http://www.patwilliamsracing.com/194...dianfour28.jpg

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