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Thread: Pretending to know what I am doing - 1947 FL

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    141

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    Quote Originally Posted by govmule84 View Post
    Yeah, I know the lower rails are often destroyed, but I don't know why. Is it just from riding the bikes offroad?

    I assumed at least one wheel was incorrect. The only way I'll change one would be the rear, and that's only if the hub is destroyed.

    The bike wears Speed Grips now, I always thought that was a late fifties/early sixties tire.

    The light is probably a shelf item. Repop taillights never killed anyone.

    I'm not going to be drilling on the frame... I'm sure the water will exit just fine when the rails get cut out!
    I have a source for NOS taillights. PM and I will give you the source. I do not want to make it public. He may also have the rear brake parts as well. I will also help anyway I can with trades to keep your money down.
    Last edited by ryan; 04-16-2017 at 07:04 AM. Reason: Added a sentence or two

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    19

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    Update time. Frame should be done soon, and the engine should be mid-July. Fingers crossed. Springer is straight (Mike47 checked it with a laser and bore-scoped the legs, all is well inside), and it now has fresh rocker bushings.



    I got the damper stuff back together with a mix of old and new parts.



    Mike also repaired the oil bag mounting tabs as well as the battery tray.





    I cleaned up the front drum. It was a mess, but most of the parts in there were salvageable.





    I have been bad about updating. The fenders are cleaned up and the rear is wired up with the taillight. I've got a new neck cup kit ready to go into the frame. I'm sort of at a standstill 'till I get the frame back, then it's time to make a roller, and hopefully around that time the engine is done!

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    19

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    I also forgot to mention that I traded my small-port heads for a set of seemingly-NOS large-port heads. I have a 74" cases and jugs, so the early heads were sort of a pain because they had a home-made manifold on 'em. I believe I had one head that was a '37, and the other was '38-'39? I don't have Palmer's book in front of me right now, but they were a mismatch, and that front had a large crack from port to valve guide on the exhaust side, so I'm chalking this up as a good thing for the bike.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Beautiful Northern New Mexico
    Posts
    2,150

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    Be sure to check the head cup kit carefully. Most I've seen are made wrong and the overall stack height is too high causing all sorts of problems with the top nuts and steering damper parts. The concave recess in the inner races is not deep enough, making the races too thick.
    Robbie Knight Amca #2736

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubone View Post
    Be sure to check the head cup kit carefully. Most I've seen are made wrong and the overall stack height is too high causing all sorts of problems with the top nuts and steering damper parts. The concave recess in the inner races is not deep enough, making the races too thick.
    Second time I have heard this, Robbie. It's causing me concern. Do you have any solutions or suppliers for a non-V-twin part that might actually fit as designed? I've heard others tell me "buy OEM," which sounds great, but I cannot seem to find it.
    Last edited by govmule84; 05-30-2017 at 08:38 AM.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    338

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    Looks like your brake backing plate is not correct for your 47. I would be interested in it if your willing too let go to get one that's right for the 47.
    AMCA #765

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    19

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    Quote Originally Posted by len dowe View Post
    Looks like your brake backing plate is not correct for your 47. I would be interested in it if your willing too let go to get one that's right for the 47.
    Got the same color paint as everything else on the bike. Looks right as rain to me.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Beautiful Northern New Mexico
    Posts
    2,150

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    Liam,
    I think Len is looking at the cable attachment point, which should be threaded 5/16-18 on a '41 up backing plate but would be a smooth bore larger hole on earlier ones.
    Robbie Knight Amca #2736

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    526

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubone View Post
    Be sure to check the head cup kit carefully. Most I've seen are made wrong and the overall stack height is too high causing all sorts of problems with the top nuts and steering damper parts. The concave recess in the inner races is not deep enough, making the races too thick.
    Correct, I recut several for some friends last year, and the races were not near as hard as original. I was able to cut them on the lathe, originals forget about cutting on a lathe. I think the repops were in the 40Rc range.
    Bob Rice #6738
    He that conquereth his own soul is greater than he who taketh a city.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubone View Post
    Liam,
    I think Len is looking at the cable attachment point, which should be threaded 5/16-18 on a '41 up backing plate but would be a smooth bore larger hole on earlier ones.
    Yeah, I know what he meant. This backing plate goes with the bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by BigLakeBob View Post
    Correct, I recut several for some friends last year, and the races were not near as hard as original. I was able to cut them on the lathe, originals forget about cutting on a lathe. I think the repops were in the 40Rc range.
    I recall you telling me to find OEM ones, and the words did not fall on deaf ears, but in several months of looking I have not found any, so it looks like V-twin or nothin'. I'd rather die on it than never ride it.

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