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Thread: '47 Chief- finally starting the build

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    67

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    Quote Originally Posted by bstevens479 View Post
    John has done 2 sets of tanks for me long wait expensive but quality work I wanted to stay original
    Quote Originally Posted by Green Indian View Post
    Yes, John is the best when it comes to these things, he's done two of my bike's tanks and never had an issue with a leak again, ever. I keep them original too.
    Good to hear. I originally had some concerns about the long-term integrity of using original tanks, but I trust John and want to use as many of my original parts as possible.

    Also going to stay with the original 6v. May regret it but can also upgrade to 12v later if its an issue.
    Last edited by TH47Indy; 03-10-2017 at 06:37 PM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NW Chicago suburbs
    Posts
    43

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    Hi TH47Indy,

    If you stick with the 6 volt system, give some thought to installing one of Gene Harper's solid state regulators and a Shorai lithium iron battery. I did last year, and the 6 volt system on my '48 Chief is finally reliable. And the Shorai battery holds a charge for quite a while. I fired up the Chief with no problems a couple weeks ago after sitting for 3 months without a charger.

    dkgoz

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    67

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    Starting the process of fitting the rear fender, change guard and exhaust system. I have an original rear fender, a reop chain guard and purchased the exhaust from Geers. Got my cases back from the rebuilder while the cylinders are our for boring and he gave me a couple to use to fit the exhaust.

    Started with the fender mounted behind the battery cradle since I believe that I read that that was the original position, and then tried with the fender over the tabs. Overall everything fits better with the fender in front of the tabs.

    The fender and braces seem to line up correctly, but the chain guard needs to work, maybe some metal added and some reshaping of the edge to get a better fit to the fender?
    Exhaust needed very little tweaking to get it to fit, and the kick started clears everything. I plan on having it welded together as one piece, then polished before the chrome dip.

    Been looking for some close ups shots of how well the guard should fit to the fender at the top and where it bolts to the fender, but haven't had much luck.
    I'd appreciate any advice or suggestions on the correct position and fit of the guard or anything other help or advice.
    Thanks.
    Terry







  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Catonsville,Md.
    Posts
    143

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    Check tabs to transmission and trans gear clearance with chain on! May have to shift fender and recontour edge of chain guard to fender.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    604

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    Terry, I think you can get that chainguard a bit better, might be tied into the way you've mounted the fender to the tabs at the battery tray? My rear fender is to the rear of the tabs, and the red one here (picture I took at an AMCA meet) is the same way... doesn't mean it's correct I guess!









    (BTW... yesterday was a 100 mile ride and I live on dirt and ride a lot of dirt roads are around here... haven't cleaned off my bike!)

    You're going to like the one piece exhaust I think!
    Pisten Bulley is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    67

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    Quote Originally Posted by tomfiii View Post
    Check tabs to transmission and trans gear clearance with chain on! May have to shift fender and recontour edge of chain guard to fender.
    Great advice, but I only have the empty cases. I've been looking through the left side of the case to see if the area for the gear/chain looks centered. The tab to trans stud does fit and I can adjust it up and down.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    67

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    Quote Originally Posted by pisten-bully View Post
    Terry, I think you can get that chainguard a bit better, might be tied into the way you've mounted the fender to the tabs at the battery tray? My rear fender is to the rear of the tabs, and the red one here (picture I took at an AMCA meet) is the same way... doesn't mean it's correct I guess!

    (BTW... yesterday was a 100 mile ride and I live on dirt and ride a lot of dirt roads are around here... haven't cleaned off my bike!)

    You're going to like the one piece exhaust I think!
    Thanks for pictures Harry. I read some other posts about the fender going behind the tabs and I did start there, but the chain guard is short to the fender so I wanted to move the fender forward. With it over the tabs the rest of the original holes in the fender also line up better, but not factor at this point, figured the hole placement will need to be adjusted.

    The chain guard is still short so I'm thinking it will need some metal added to fit the curve to the fender, so I could move the fender back behind the tabs if that is the correct or best position.

    Can't wait to get to the point where I can get my bike dirty!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    67

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    Quote Originally Posted by tomfiii View Post
    Check tabs to transmission and trans gear clearance with chain on! May have to shift fender and recontour edge of chain guard to fender.
    Making some progress, shaped the guard to fit the contour of the fender and also took Toms advice and got a drive sprocket to check clearance. The drive spoken I have for fitting the guard is a 26 tooth and I don't have a chain yet.
    I plan on using a 23 tooth sprocket, which should allow about .20" more clearence then the 26.

    How much extra clearence should I allow for the chain between the bottom of the sprocket and the chain guard?

    And how much, if any, space should there between the edge of the guard to the fender?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    in someone's crosshairs
    Posts
    208

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    Terry, I think you can get that chainguard a bit better, might be tied into the way you've mounted the fender to the tabs at the battery tray? My rear fender is to the rear of the tabs, and the red one here (picture I took at an AMCA meet) is the same way... doesn't mean it's correct I guess! ~ Pisten-Bully

    What you're showing is correct. The fender goes on the rear side of the mounting tab. Moving it will also align his chain guard to the fender better.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    67

    Default Back at it!

    It's been a while since I've felt like I've made much progress, but now I'm back on track.
    Picked up my rebulit motor before the holidays and I'm really pleased with the end result. Sounded great on the test stand. Getting it in the frame wasn't easy, but followed alot of the advice on this site, and after some cursing and hearing my Dad ask several times " are you sure you don't need to remove the heads?" it went in as it should.

    Just picked up the rebulit tanks, re-plated shifter and the sheet metal is cleaned and welded up. The exhaust plating should be done early next week.

    Spent today doing a final assembly to recheck the fit before paint and the only thing that needs some adjustment is the chain guard tab.
    Tomorrow will be disaasembly and then off to a buddys body shop for paint.

    I made a list of everything I need to complete the resto, and I was surprised at how many parts I still need. Over a 120 items. Some are small, but there are some big ticket and hard to find items like the front & rear crash bars, horn, headlight, seat and quite a few $100+ items.
    Not complaining, was just thought I was closer then that.

    IMG_0976.jpgIMG_0986.jpgIMG_0988.jpgIMG_1020.jpgIMG_1023.jpg

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