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Thread: Sealing primer

  1. #11
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    Just another "small" point... as Harleytoprock mentions "BONDO". I just want to say that Bondo is a Name brand but is used as a generic word for ALL Auto Body fillers. Same as for Kleenex... that is a name brand for tissues, but everyone uses it for ALL tissues. Just a NOTE for those that didn't know this... ;^)
    Jim

    AMCA #6520

  2. #12
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    May 2005
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    NH
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    Bob- your comment to Tom is highly inappropriate!
    Dan
    Dan Margolien
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    JD enthusiasts: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/harleyjd/

  3. #13
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    I could give a rats ass! The guy is nothing more than a psycho arrogant asshole on two legs. The sooner it croaks the happier I will be. Dan I hope he starts PMing you instead of me. This message was paid for and approved by Bob Luland

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Luland View Post
    I could give a rats ass! The guy is nothing more than a psycho arrogant asshole on two legs. The sooner it croaks the happier I will be. Dan I hope he starts PMing you instead of me. This message was paid for and approved by Bob Luland
    Just for the record Folks,

    I may well be a psycho arrogant a-hole, but I have not been PMing him, and have no reason to do so.

    Back to sealing primers,
    I fear my effort to airbrush carburetors with the finest paints available must come with a significant cost increase.

    ....Cotten
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  5. #15
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    Aug 2009
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    rural eastern South Dakota
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    [QUOTE=T. Cotten;158217]Just for the record Folks,

    I may well be a psycho arrogant a-hole, but I have not been PMing him, and have no reason to do so.



    ..the Bob and Tom show.. comedy, for now.
    I like both of your motorcycle commentary, though.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
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    Central Illinois, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by fillibuster View Post
    ..the Bob and Tom show.. comedy, for now.
    I like both of your motorcycle commentary, though.
    So Filibuster!

    Who's the straight man, and who's the clown?

    Back to paint,
    My Paasche airbrush is taking a lot of trial and error time.
    The butyrate paint requires a special thinner, and a 'retarder', as Midwestern humidity makes the finish "blush".

    Even before materials costs, it takes me forty minutes to prepare, paint, and clean up for a single carb.
    (And that's without a primer...)
    There's no way I can charge forty bucks to paint a carb, but I will lose money if I don't.

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 09-20-2016 at 03:15 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    216

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    kind of on topic - paint/primer - but a little off topic as well. wasn't sure where to post/ask:

    in the palmer book it says sheet metal was parkerized under the paint. having never parkerized myself, I'm not even sure what the solution is made of. my question is, did the parkerizing act as the primer or was there a primer over it? was the parkerizing a rust control until the factory could prime and paint?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    149

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    Parkerizing is a phosphate conversion coating. There are 3 types: iron phosphate, zinc phosphate and manganese phosphate. The latter is what was historically used to finish military small arms. The other two types are used as pretreatments prior to painting. In any case, a mixed acid solution (primarily phosphoric) reacts with the steel substrate to convert a surface layer of metal to a crystalline phosphate which is chemically bonded to the steel. The phosphate crystals greatly increase the surface area which enhances paint adhesion. An automotive paint store should have a phosphate product such as Bonderite they can sell you.

  9. #19
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    Jun 2001
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    I realize that cosmoline stained parkerizing to many hues, Folks,...

    But I believe that the MOCO chose different formulae for different hardware.
    As a subcontractor, Chandler Products may well have used different solutions as well.

    Note in the attachment how star hub seal covers are a very light gray. This also resembles my '49 footboards that were painted over, and an NOS Knuck cylinder shown to me that had parkerizing in the bore.
    Other hardware is nearly black, and some is the familiar green-brown that I suspect is the manganese formula.

    My contention is that if a "restored" machine's parkerizing matches everywhere, its a fault!

    ....Cotten
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    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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