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Thread: 1920 Harley Model F

  1. #231
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
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    4,038

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    I have the 'export' hand brake on my '16 H-D and it is a terrible excuse for a brake. It isn't even a good hill holder. The Excelsior, and Henderson double brake was far better. I tried arcing the outer band to the drum on my Harley but the hand brake just doesn't seem to exert enough constriction on the drum. In 1921, H-D changed the export brake to a heel pedal mounted at the right rear footboard, and the geometry, and new brackets improved it's performance. I had all that stuff, and let it go because I wanted my '16 to be correct. . . Probably a mistake
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  2. #232
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Blighty
    Posts
    264

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    Quote Originally Posted by exeric View Post
    I have the 'export' hand brake on my '16 H-D and it is a terrible excuse for a brake. It isn't even a good hill holder.
    My bike originally came with a sidecar, I cannot imagine the terror of adding all that weight with the current brakes.

    Al least the "hand" brake is good for two things It makes my bike street legal and it provides decoration and a talking point (is that three things?)

    John

  3. #233
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
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    4,038

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    John, I have a Rogers sidecar that I plan to hang on my '16. I've been thinking of putting a disk brake on the sidecar wheel which could work, or may be very comical. I have this image of hitting the brake and having the motorcycle make a radius around the sidecar wheel. I don't think the front forks are strong enough for a disk, and clincher tires can slip on the rims. If city riding is likely, I think the alternatives are doing a Cannonball upgrade on tires, wheels, and brakes; or leave it stock and restrict riding to off hours, and rural roads.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  4. #234
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Blighty
    Posts
    264

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    I remember you mentioning the sidecar Eric. I think the sidecar brake idea is worth doing although I agree with the risk of ending up going in circles. The early forks are certainly not up to a front brake and I think if I were ever to consider one I would either fit later one (VL/UL maybe?) or perhaps get Jake Robbins make me some that look right and are strong enough.


    First update is a shot of the front stand with the clip in place



    The oil arrived, 25 litres equates to about 6.6 US gallons or 5.5 UK gallons.



    After filling with oil, next thing was to check that the hand pump was delivering oil OK and to remind myself of how much each pump stroke delivered. Initially it delivered nothing which was traced to a broken cup washer. I already had a die that I had made ages ago so I soaked a piece of leather in some oil and made a new one. The first one didn't work 100% because I think the leather was too thin so I made another from thicker material which works in the sense that it pumps oil perfectly although its quite tight, hopefully it will bed in and ease off.



    3 pump strokes equates to about 140 ml which is about 4 3/4 US ounces. I think that this amount is about right for this motor



    Next I filled up with fuel and checked for leaks. At this point I realised I needed to make a minor adjustment to the throttle cable so that is the next job before I see if it will fire up and that's as far as I got to tonight.

    I might have some parental duties tomorrow that may mean that I wont get around to any more until Wednesday.

    John

  5. #235
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Blighty
    Posts
    264

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    A while ago I wrote about being a dim-wit and having to repair the magneto. BoschZEV on this board recommended that I have it re-magnetised and whilst I didn't forget his advice I never got around to it.

    I had some time earlier and got everything back together. However I kicked it over and made various adjustments enough times to know that something needed attention. (starter rollers are now on the want list) The first item to check was ignition timing which needs the chain guard taking off to get to the points cover properly. I figured that seeing as I had gone this far I should go and get the mag re-magnetised to eliminate that as a possible issue. So after a two hour drive each way to a magneto repair company I now have a fully magnetised magneto (at least I hope so, I don't have the equipment to measure magnetic field strength).

    Now I need to refit it, hence my separate post in the J/JD section.

    I also remembered that removing the left tank is a pain in the neck without the item described as: "Cap EO-747 to screw on oil tank nipple when feed pipe is disconnected". So I will make a couple of those, one for the on bike toolkit and one to keep in the shop.

    John

  6. #236
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Blighty
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    264

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    Since my last update I have mostly been unwell with some horrible gastric bug which has meant that little progress on the bike has been made. This is doubly annoying because the bug has coincided with some days that I had booked off work.

    Earlier today however I did get back to the bike and I first sorted out my technique for timing the mag so that is now installed and the bike back together. I tried starting it again but there was nothing after about 4 or 5 kicks. Then I realised that I hadn't re-connected the HT leads so with those reconnected I tried again and after 3 or 4 kicks it started and ran (badly) for all of about 4 seconds and then petered out.

    I couldn't restart it again. I also noticed a fuel smell and that the breather pipe that runs below the carb was wet. So I stopped trying to start the bike and pondered my options.

    The mag is good and the timing is right. I am confident that the timing hasn't slipped because the gear is always a very tight fit on the taper so I am ruling out ignition (for now)

    Given the symptoms, i.e. it petered out and the area below the carb was wet with fuel I am looking at the carb again.

    First I checked the float. All was well, in this shot my remote fuel can is about three feet above the carb and the level stayed rock still for over half an hour and the level right is according to the manual.



    Whilst the float valve was being tested I set too making the oil tank plug that I mentioned earlier. I found a lump of brass hex that looked suitable and, using a 9/16" x 24 bottom tap that I had ordered earlier in the week, made a simple plug. I have made the bottom of it inside flat rather than trying to match the taper on the nipple. I will make a small rubber disc to go in the bottom so the plug will only need to be finger tight to make it oil tight.



    At this point Mrs Technoir called me in for dinner so that's as far as I got today.

    I need to read through the various posts on here and caimag from Cotten and Tommo on setting up a Model H Schebler from scratch and try again.

    I would like to think that it is close.

    John.

  7. #237
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Blighty
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    264

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    Hi all, since last posting I have been busy with anything and everything other than old bikes however I have some time tomorrow and my initial focus will be on getting the carb right.

    I have been re-reading the Service Station Manual and it suggests that the starting point for these carbs is with the knurl button being three turns out with the needle valve lift lever at position "4" on the cam. And with the low speed air screw three turns out.

    Is this a good starting point? Does anyone have a better starting point?

    John

  8. #238
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Blighty
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    264

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    Quote Originally Posted by TechNoir View Post
    .....however I have some time tomorrow and........
    Haha. They were prophetic words. A lot has happened in the last 7 days but nothing to do with old bikes

    First thing was that I was as sick as a dog from Saturday evening to Sunday afternoon, not just feeling unwell but Olympic standard vomiting. Long story short I was admitted to hospital last Sunday, they have let me home for the weekend but I have to go back in next week. I will omit the details but the scarier possibilities seem to have been ruled out or at least put on the unlikely list but the definitive diagnosis is still up in the air.

    Also, last Wednesday we seemed to have sold our house and we have also found somewhere to move to. If the planets all line up OK we are on the move in September. Long term this a good thing as I have space to build a decent shop. I am shooting for 2000 square feet (my wish list is 4000) although I may have to dial that back a bit once I get the detailed measurements of the available space. Because it needs to be built it will pause any bike stuff for a while (although a shop counts as bike stuff even if it is indirectly)

    All of the above is a long winded way of saying that fate seems to not want me to get to ride this bike much. Screwing around with old bikes is off the agenda for the immediate future.

    John
    Last edited by TechNoir; 07-06-2019 at 10:40 AM.

  9. #239
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    1 mile east of the Rocky Mountains.
    Posts
    831

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    Hi John, I'm sorry to hear you were befallen with illness; my thoughts will be with you as we all go forward. Congratulations on finding a new home! Take care and looking forward to seeing you back on the forum!

  10. #240
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Blighty
    Posts
    264

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    Thanks Steve, The house is great other than a couple of carpets and some paint it is good. The garage/sheds that are with it are the things that need the most attention.

    Hopefully I will be back to full health soon.

    John

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