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Thread: Need some opinions on a 48 rebuild please.

  1. #1

    Default Need some opinions on a 48 rebuild please.

    First off, let me say hello to you guys. Although I just signed up on the forums, I have been utilizing a bunch of the info for various things for some of my bikes. So, thanks. That said, I have a couple of situations that I couldn't find answers to so here I am. I have a 48 chief that has 14k original miles. I need to do a rebuild on the engine and gear box. Other than the paint and a few pieces of chrome it's all pretty much original. My question is because I likely have to repaint the sheet metal due a leak between my gas/oil tank, should I have the cases bead blasted to match the fresh paint or leave the patina to match the frame and rest of the bike? The whole bike looks pretty good for a 48 or as you would figure with 14k. I know it's my call, I just don't know which would look worse, shiny sheet metal only or patina-ed frame etc. only. I would just like some input from the forum. (It's my first and only Indian). Thanks and sorry for the book.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    161

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    I would scrub the main cases with some small brushes and lacquer thinner. I did that to mine and blasted the trans and other covers with walnut shells and it all looks the same. So you could just clean it all with thinner and brushes. blasting with walnut shells is just a little faster and no fumes. I am sure that there are other cleaners that would work well just do a search on some of the other antique bike forums. I would not blast the cases with glass beads you will remove the smooth finish now on the cases and open up the surface and it will be harder to keep clean awhile removing the original cast surface that you will never recover. You will also run a high risk of not being able to remove all of those glass beads out the cases and small oil holes.
    Jim D
    Jim D

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    642

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    Not sure your intent with the scoot (a points bike or original rider or ??); however, if original as you say; I'd leave it as is IMHO. Fix/correct everything for mechanical soundness/ridability. OP's command big money.......just saying.
    William Edwards, AMCA #10035

    Attend the 2019 Southern National Meet at Denton Farmpark, NC, 17-18 May 2019
    http://www.amcasouthernnationalmeet.com/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
    Posts
    4,176

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    I agree with William, and Jim. I no longer glass bead engine, or trans cases as I don't like the white look on the aluminum, and there is the risk of stray beads getting released into the works. All you really need to be concerned with is getting the inside of the cases clean so your rebuild is successful. If the sheet metal is the only major component that will be aesthetically restored, you should preserve everything else. I think, just doing the sheet metal is okay, but if you go any further, you might just as well restore the whole bike.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  5. #5

    Default

    I guess that's kind of the way I was figuring, it's just the thought of that brand new paint against the rest of the bike just isn't sitting well. It's kinda like buying the 80 year old lady next door a boob job. That said, adding a fake tan to go along with the new hooters aint gonna make the whole package look any better, but I digress...It's gonna be a rider for now while I find replacement parts for the newer chrome at which point I may try and get it judged. Thanks, guys

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    S.E.N.Y. State American side of Hudson River
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    485

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    Bill,

    I also have a 48 with sidecar also has about 14 thousand original miles on it. It has a 70s repaint and doesn't look too out of place. Why not try to match the repaint on the tanks to the rest of the sheet metal??
    D. A. Bagin #3166 AKA Panheadzz 440 48chief W/sidecar 57fl 57flh 58fl 66m-50 68flh 70xlh

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
    Posts
    4,176

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    If you can post a few pictures, I think you could get some very good information, and advice. If your fenders, and guards are decent, you may want to limit your paint work to just the tanks.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    S.E.N.Y. State American side of Hudson River
    Posts
    485

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    If you only paint tanks you only lose 2 points rather than 6
    D. A. Bagin #3166 AKA Panheadzz 440 48chief W/sidecar 57fl 57flh 58fl 66m-50 68flh 70xlh

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
    Posts
    4,176

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    Quote Originally Posted by D.A.Bagin View Post
    Bill,

    Why not try to match the repaint on the tanks to the rest of the sheet metal??
    Sorry D.A., I repeated what you said. It makes a lot of sense Bill, and pictures would be great.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  10. #10

    Default

    I'm much more concerned about the way the bike looks to me than how many points would be affected, so the tanks vs all the sheet metal being painted is kind of moot. The bike already has an older repaint on it, so the 2 or 6 points would also be irrelevant. I think trying to match the tanks to the rest with it being older would not be the best way to go. On top of that, it's a color of green that (not prairie) that isn't all that appealing to me -and I really like green bikes. I know I'm probably going to get some flack for this after reading other posts on different sites, but I'm actually thinking of repainting the whole bike an original red or black and either using a less glossy version, or dulling it down by using a light compound. (Not to try and fool anybody into thinking it's original paint or anything) but just to have it "blend" together for my own enjoyment. I know it's my bike and I can do whatever I want, but is this something that will have people throwing rocks and poking sticks at me should I bring it to Wausseon? I will try and get some pics up, but my level of computer prowess borders on bovine-like.

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