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Thread: flywheel and shaft tapers, lapping

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    rural eastern South Dakota
    Posts
    934

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    Flunked out. Disappointed. Good on 3 holes out of 4, saved the worst one, the drive shaft, for last. After removing the "ridge" at the small end, the shaft went in too deep.
    I'd gone to the lathe to remove the ridge on the pinion side, had success there with 5 minutes of lapping, and again, less than .001" wiggle.
    Still can't understand why the drive hole taper was so different.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1

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    Fillibuster
    Am new to this forum, but I was wandering if you could post up some pictures of your process for lapping in your flywheels? I think I'm following you but just what to make sure.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    rural eastern South Dakota
    Posts
    934

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stimie View Post
    Fillibuster
    Am new to this forum, but I was wandering if you could post up some pictures of your process for lapping in your flywheels? I think I'm following you but just what to make sure.
    Sorry on the pics, stimie, it just doesn't "compute" for me. Cory Othen helped me a couple of times. My daughter has been some help too, but I don't have the patience.
    BTW, a new set of wheels showed up, 3 good holes under .002" movement, and the fourth was at .008". Sent them back. A day later I found an old stock set I'd hidden (why?). They are pristine, no hammer tracks from truing, every hole had under .002" movement. They are all balanced up and ready now!
    Also astounding, I have an old set of Harley 45 wheels (they have same tapers as Chief), and the shafts landed in there rock solid!

    My lapping guide is simply a 2 11/16" shaft about 2 1/2" long, faced off, and bored to 1". I clamp this over the crank hole taper to ensure that I'm lapping the hole perpendicular to the wheel. I made another that's bored to 7/8" for the drive and pinion shafts. Then I made "zip wheel cuts" (as per Tom Cotten's pics) in one end of the respective shafts, and put nuts on them so I could spin them with a socket, driven by variable-speed drill at slow rpm. Interrupt contact by pushing the shaft back toward the drill with left hand middle finger while triggering drill with right hand. Reverse often.

    Clamping the guide onto stock wheels would be more difficult, as there is no broad surface to rely on. ... and my stockers didn't need lapping, woo-boo!

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