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Thread: rear hub issue on my U model

  1. #11
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    Jul 2006
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    Central Florida
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    If you want to be technically correct, the brake "drum" is called a "brake shell" in all of the Harley parts catalogs, not "drum" at all. It really is important, in most cases, to own a reprint of a factory "Spare Parts" book for your model of Harley (they're basically "all" available), and refer to it often when writing here; that way, everyone has the same references when delving into problems like this. "Brake drum " is so universally understood that it doesn't matter in this case, but can u name a part, number 4359-29? (66010-29 after the 1951 parts change-over) and compare that with PN 66202-29.
    Last edited by Sargehere; 05-11-2012 at 04:58 AM.

  2. #12
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    Sep 2007
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    Ok, so the whole thing is a butchered mess. I was trying to be some what kind. You know? Those AMCA family values!
    Last edited by Robert Luland; 05-11-2012 at 07:03 PM.

  3. #13
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    It might pay you to check Shop Dope 157A, dated April 13, 1937. That describes a factory "fix" for chattering rear Big Twin brakes. Basically involves grinding the ends of the brake linings a little bit. I tried it, and it worked on my '37. Would at least be a stop-gap for you, until you find new(er) parts.
    It's in the Antique Cycle Supply reprint of, "Shop Dopes, Volume Two."

    It basically tells you to grind the top ends of your brake linings, after installation on the shoes, to 5/64ths-inch thickness for the first 5/8ths of an inch from the ends- that's the shoes' pivot stud ends. On the operating camshaft ends, grind both linings down to 5/64ths-inch thickness for 1 3/4-inches.
    Says, "Apply this change to any brake that develops chattering and grabbing, also when servicing with new liners." Honest Injun!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    London. UK
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    Thanks for that Gerry.
    Can't find a replacement rear brake drum in the UK or Europe at the moment. If anyone knows a good spares shop that could help I'd appreciate the tip.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    I'm a little mystified by the pictures of the brake operating lever. In the 1st picture the lever appears to be on correctly by the curvature, yet in the 3rd shot it looks to be offset away from the backing plate. Is it an optical illusion, or does the lever have the wrong bends in it? This can raise havoc with the operation because the lever can cock the actuator cam if the offset is facing out instead of in.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Beautiful Northern New Mexico
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    Also note the shoe pivot is missing the upper cap, which will also allow the shoes to roll out of position!
    Robbie
    Rubone Amca #2736

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    London. UK
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    Thanks guys for taking the time to reply.
    Here's some more pictures to determine if the brake operation lever is correct.






  8. #18
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    Jan 2008
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    It was apparently an optical illusion, probably a reflection from the chrome. The lever is on the correct way.

  9. #19

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    Shortly after I bought my first pan, (49 chopper) I was out riding a few miles from home when I hit the rear brake, (and only brake). It sounded like a jack hammer, heavy steel parts were torn right off, like the tab on the backing plate that fits into the frame slot, gone! The lever arm was also cranked right off the square cam shaft, just like butter... I think what happened was the shoes were worn down to the point where the operating cam must have turned almost 90 degrees, jammed itself between the shoes causing that jackhammer effect. The drum was also cracked, I don't know if the crack was there before this happened or not but that could have also been a factor. Mike

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