Panhead Tool Box Mount

[Bill Pedalino]

I'm replacing the tool box mount on a 1953 FL frame. I have an aftermarket bracket that looks pretty good as well as the approximate measurement of where, on the bottom frame tube the bracket is to be placed. My question is which joints get welded. I would assume that the bottom joint on the bottom of the lower frame tube (parellel to the ground) gets a full-lenght fillet weld, as well as as the vertical (side) returns running up and around the bottom tube. Is there also an 'inside' horizontal fillet weld placed on the TOP of the bottom tube between the tube and bracket?

Thanks...

[Steve Little]

Hi Bill.
Correct oem look is about 1" long electrode weld along the bottom from each edge of the bracket.
On the top of the tube, weld from the outside edge of the bracket to about the same measurement.
It is the width of each strengthening channel on the outside edge of the bracket. No welding in the centre depression of the bracket.
If you have an arc welder with DC range, use that setting with a general purpose rod. The DC setting will give a flatter, more original looking weld.
There is a measurement to observe on the original drawing, but you may find it easier to fit you'r original fender and toolbox and put the screw through the hole in the fender. Email me if you need more info or pictures.
Hopefully you haven't got a Tiawan bracket. The holes are in the wrong position and they don't have the square nuts spot welded to the back.

[kg993]

Good timing on these posts as I'm almost ready to fit the aftermarket mount on the 51. Fortunate enough to still have the top half of origional mount still intact. Considering only replacing the missing lower half because the rolled edges are not exact on new mount. Any comments on that idea.

Kerry

[Steve Little]

Kerry. I would be more inclined to remove the remanent of the old bracket and replace it with a good quality, complete bracket.
Trying to get two halves of two different pressings to match up, is always going to be hard work. Even if you had two halves of two different genuine brackets
My experience of few years ago....a customer sent me three different loose frame sections he had collected over the years with the instructions to marry it all up into a 1940 frame for a Knuckle he was restoring. The axle carriers still had the top tubes intact and the top section of the toolbox bracket with the riveted cross bar but the bottom section of the bracket was broken off and missing. We tried to retain the one year only 1940 toolbox bracket for the customer by using a original section of toolbox bracket from a wreck.
It didn't work. We wasted hours and it had a slight step in the shape because of the different time it had been stamped.

[kg993]

Thanks Steve, Is there a good quality bracket on the market?

Kerry

[Bill Pedalino]

Steve,

If I understand your instruction, it looks like a 1" weld along the bottom and in the middle of the bracket, and a 1" verrtical weld along each vertical edge? If I'm wrong, can you post me a picture here or send it to my email address; WMP@soundindustries.us?

I will most likely stick-weld the bracket using a 3/32" 7018 low-hydrogen rod. Its a clean weld and the bead size can be controlled.

As for the quiality of the replacement bracket, it may be a Tiawan knock-off, as I bought it from Ted. But the stuff that he uses on his reproduction frames has, in my opinion been quite good. The bracket holes do line up with those in the tool box and it does have the spot-welded square nuts.

Thanks for the information
Bill

[Steve Little]

Hi Bill. I just tried to download some pictures for you but I think my office laptop is having some kind of coniption.
If someone else can upload the pictures I can still email them.
Bill, I would not recomend Low Hydrogen rods. They are great for hard surfacing grader blades, but with the hardness comes brittleness. The vibration of our favourite bikes will crack a low hydogen weld.
I use 2.5mm general purpose rods when I weld up our frames....and I believe HD did as well.
I Started full time frame manufacture and frame restoration in 1989 and no breakages yet.
When you are ready to weld the bracket, set the frame so that you are welding slightly downhill and this will make you move faster during the weld.
This will give the weld the correct appearance.
The way you have described the weld placement does not sound right. I would wait until you see the pictures.
Regards Steve

[cdndewey]

I'm interested in the pictures also Steve.

[Bill Pedalino]

Thanks for the advice Steve. A milder, softer steel would be more maliable and more elastic than the Lo-Hydrogen 7018 or even the celulose 6010 rod and definately less resistant to the cracking caused by fatigue failure that comes with vibration. As I'm now in the Marine Contracting Business, I automatically think of the materials that we use - sometimes not appropriate for motorcycle applications, as you well-noted. Great point and I certainly will follow your advice.

I'm curious about the full-time frame restoration that you perform. Can you provide your Company information for future reference?

I'm also looking foward to some pics of an OEM tool bracket installation - Anyone have a pic of the welds on the late (1953 - 1957) tool box bracket?

Bill Pedalino

[Steve Little]

Bill I will send you a personal messgage