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Thread: the early cast-in-India cylinders

  1. #1
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    Default the early cast-in-India cylinders

    Have these been discussed here? I'm getting too much experience on the subject. Must have missed all the bad news. Still figure to make good, though.

  2. #2
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    They have been discussed at length on the Virual Indian list. You must look at 9-10 items before installation.

    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Virtua...&charset=utf-8

    Ed

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    Quote Originally Posted by Edd View Post
    They have been discussed at length on the Virual Indian list. You must look at 9-10 items before installation.

    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Virtua...&charset=utf-8

    Ed
    thx, Edd. It took a lot of eye-burning review, but I copied this one:

    "wd-ing from virtual indian:

    "Re: [Virtual Indian] Re: Reproduction Indian Cylinder Kit on eBay

    With the continued interest in new cylinders here is the list items that
    must be looked at before installing any new India cylinders:


    Here are some modifications may be necessary the India cylinders to fit
    properly. There may also be others needed.
    1. The top two fins on the front cylinder need to be cut between the
    intake manifold so the nuts will turn.
    2. The rear cylinder fins above the shifter tower. Hits the trans tower.
    3. Grind clearance for both cylinders in the area where the carb.bowl is.
    4. Valve guides are to large for the valve covers. Remove guides and turn
    down to fit the valve covers.
    5. Grind exhaust port area so the valve covers will fit. Do this when the
    valve guides are out.
    6. Intake nipples are too large for the nuts. Can usually be fitted with
    valve grinding compound. Be easy doing this so you will not bind and shear
    the pin on the nipple. Some cylinders come with new manifold nuts.
    7. Head bolt holes may not be correct positions and head bolts will bind
    on the holes in the head. Drill out cylinder head holes to next size.
    8. Check head bolt thread depth in the cylinders. Some have bottomed out
    and ruined a thread on the bolt and upon removal it took some threads out of
    the cylinder. Use of 2" head bolts will help or shorten original head
    bolts.
    9. Hone cylinders to fit standard pistons as they are undersize ( a good
    thing)" .....end quote from VI

    shucks! I'm in over 500 bucks, plus cost of cyls. Will all vendors please have a good laugh on me!!
    Bought the cyls from a guy back when Farmington meet was still in Farmington, for around 400, with pistons.
    My "head shop" is good, worth an extra HD any day, got a little over 300 in him to bore to the pistons that came with the cyls. He also ground seats to fit new valves, aligned with the guides that were also in the cyls.
    THEN, I got to swear at the intake nipples. Okay, new nipples, 30 ea, and new guides while we're at it, on advice from reputable source. (Removing the nipples wasn't that bad) .. and the new guides threw the seat alignment off enough to see a whisker of daylight through the ports. My head shop will have to re-cut the seats (I LOVE doing this twice! kinda like on the job site!) But now I have to call him and ask him to do nothing, so I can bring the cyls back to the shop and grind fins at the valve-cover area, and I get to assemble an air-motor and install it and check tranny-tower clearance, and then, and then, ..

    anyway, thanks for the link to VI, Edd, .. and anybody else who is thirsty, throw a party and laugh at this schmuck! It's on me!

  4. #4
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    should add, I still figure to win out, patience prevails

  5. #5
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    It's been weekends only working on things, but they're about ready for a final pass through the machine shop for re-seat with the new guides. Fins and ex port are relieved, didn't take much. Biggest chore was working over a set of heads to re-align the head-bolt holes, and replacing the intake nipples, which cost me 2 new nipples. Can't say the guides were of inferior material, but they did fit the valve cover a little too tightly to allow enough shift to screw on the outsides to the lifter housings comfortably.
    Don't recall discussion of the intake ports, how they were cast and machined so much differently than the original. I didn't elect to adjust the port shapes, and don't know if I'll recognize the diff in power.
    Some on VI site were talking about intake valve guide SEALS, to limit oil-in-combustion chamber, reducing carbon build-up at the top of the stroke on the valve side of the bore, lessens "chewing" of the piston.
    Any comments? before the Harley guys start posting knuckle-head trash here too?!! (that's supposed to be sporting)

  6. #6
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    Phil,

    You can search around Jim Mosher's site for info on the valve seal as I think he uses them. http://www.performanceindian.com/

    Ed

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    Quote Originally Posted by Edd View Post
    Phil,

    You can search around Jim Mosher's site for info on the valve seal as I think he uses them. http://www.performanceindian.com/

    Ed
    Starklite item. teflon inserts?
    In my 22 years of hard working (includes sidecar duty), the first apparent wear issue is the chewing of the pistons from carbon buildup at top of bore on valve side. I'm presuming that excess oil enters the intake port, since rings/bore usually look okay. If the stems and guides held up, this could be reduced.

    too late for this build, ridin's waited long enough!

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