What do I have?

[Wingnut234]

Thanks everybody. The bike was originally bought in the '60's by a friend of the family. To his knowledge he was the 2nd, maybe 3rd owner. In the 70's, he gave the bike to his brother. His brother parked it in a barn in '75 until I picked it up in December. I probably could have put oil and gas in it, and rode it. But to be safe, I went ahead and stripped it clean. The bike is 100% apart, and I've broken the motor down - minus needing some cleaning, it's in excellent shape.

The motor is in the process of being bead blasted / cleaned. Then it's new gaskets and rings and reassemble. The motor is stamped 41FL3565. My goal is to restore it as close as possible to '41. If it's a little bit hybrid, I'm OK with it - but I really want the springer front end back, as well as the jockey shifter.

Sarge, I have the book you mentioned which has really turned out to be a "bible". What I'd love to find at this point, is an OEM front end - I've seen there are several versions out there - any suggestions on which length will work best? I'm going to be making the trip from Northern VA to the Cycle Den in PA - Rick says he has the jockey shift assembly that I need. If any of you know of a good source to find a front end, please share. I'm ready to get this beauty re-painted, assembled, and take her for a ride on the backroads of VA!

Would love your opinion on this too - Paint the frame, or Powder coat - Pros / Cons - what do you think?

You can zoom in and see the motor stamp. Here's a better pic of the frame stripped (almost 100% - since this pic - the frame is naked and ready to be cleaned, and painted / maybe powder coated.

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[Hollywood]

speechless...

[Wingnut234]

What are you speechless about? I'm confused by your comment...

[Sargehere]

Excellent photo! That number is cool. As in, perfectly good! You have the "short ribs" case, correct for 1941, and the stamping is all the right shapes for the numbers. On the bottom you'll have two identical strings of numbers, line bore numbers; both probably start with "41-," and indicate a cherry motor. dig the bondo/lead out of the holes for the shifter gate in those tanks for the two screws and you can replace the tank shifting mechanism.

Stock Springers go for two grand, anymore, and that's without the brake parts, ride control or anything. If you run across an 'early' one with the grease fittings inside, under the headlight, i'll give you the 41 springer on my '37. Just if you find an early one first, that is. You just want to stay away from the "Offset" mid-46 and later. Of course, you need the 1-inch Big Twin neck.

I don't believe in powder coating, personally. It chips easily, and is a PITA. Just paint it.

[tomcat1]

My goal is to restore it as close as possible to '41.

If your not going to use the rear fender, And it is truly a 47 fender. I would be interested in it.

[Wingnut234]

Thanks, Sarge - you've been more than helpful. I don't know what lightning bolt struck my wife, but I've been given full blessing on spending whatever I have to on this restore. I guess it doesn't hurt that I only had to pay $6000 for the bike and she recognizes the value in it.

I will definitely let you know what I find in my journeys in regards to the front end. Hopefully we can help each other out!

[Wingnut234]

If your not going to use the rear fender, And it is truly a 47 fender. I would be interested in it.

No problem, Tomcat - I'll let you know if I end up replacing it. One thing to note - the tombstone light is intact, but the glass lense does have a crack in it.

[Rub]

What I'd love to find at this point, is an OEM front end - I've seen there are several versions out there - any suggestions on which length will work best?

There is only ONE length, and it is the same for all Knuckleheads from '36-'47. There are different versions in terms of method of construction (you need a brazed one) and whether inline or offset stem(you need inline). There are also differences in location of grease zerks and other minor differences. No longer versions were ever used on production machines except the ELC for the Canadian Military. The only other longer versions were early WLA and XA, neither of which is correct fore your bike. And before you commit to a restoration be aware that in order to be right every single part needs to be as it originally was finished, the right year (including the forks which need correct forging date hallmarks), the correct hardware, etc. The difference between a correctly restored Knuckle and a refinished one is immense, both in time and dollars.
Robbie

[Sargehere]

Robbie's right, but I read you, Wingnut as saying you want it, "as close to possible, but if it's a little bit hybrid, (I'm) okay with it."

Now is a crossroads for you. I remember someone else who frequents this board, and another board both Robbie and I follow, who started out with a similar attitude, about a '52, as I remember, but was influenced by "the more you learn, the more you want to learn," and changed his mind over time, I think, and he came to decide that he was (originally, "perish the thought!") going through with a full-on '52 restoration. Not that there's anything wrong with that!

You have a "good" basis, apparently, for a '41, first year 74 Knuckle. There are pristinely restored '41 examples already in existence, and that is do-able, and the finished bike is 'more valuable' after all (the blood, swat and tears). 'Costs considerably more to do, also, of course. And once finished, everything you do with it risks lowering its value as it accumulates normal wear-and-tear; which is the reason so many pristine bikes end up as "trailer queens" or in museums, never even started up for a trip to the beach or for a pack of smokes to the grocery store.

Piecing one back together, like embarking on a search for the exact right dated parts, simulating the bike that was taken apart long ago, also takes a long time in a garage before it ever sees daylight. You have a frame (probably) and a good, still-41 engine, "dunno" trans, but looks right, '41 fuel tanks and dash & maybe r. brake, and about everything else was 'updated' by a previous owner(s).

Jerry Wieland in post #10 suggests you ride it as it has developed. Some would probably suggest that that route "preserves history" in some aesthetic way. So, there are several avenues leading from this crossroads. You have a plan to ride it, but as a rider '41. That's a bit easier to do if you're not chained to exact restoration, and considerably faster, usually.

I got me a rider '37 U-model forty-two years ago, and i ride it and treat it like my everyday bike. It's one of my family members, and longest surviving life-companion, too. Some people are stunned, from comments i get (How can you ride it every day?"), but with the growth of the repop industry around these bikes, you can wear out any part of one, and have replacement parts overnighted to you and fix it and keep on truckin'. That sounds 2me a little like what you envision.

However, if the correct, matching, cast date cartouche on the underside of your transmission top is essential for your happiness/well-being, or if you think only in terms of relative financial rewards at the end, that's not for you.

The alternative is to strive for something, as in your mind, now, that looks considerably more like a perfectly stock 1941 FL, but is not intended to stand the scrutiny of AMCA Judges. That would be something you build to ride and have fun on, prepared to fix what you break and ride again. Basically, you can't wear these old bikes out if you're prepared to get your hands dirty.

It's entirely up to you. As has been said often before, "we're just caretakers of these old pieces of machinery," & they'll usually outlive us and be passed down (like yours was) But don't start making an investment in your dream bike & waste energy and money by changing your mind later. Of course, I think the most fun is to build whatever pleases you, and the most fun for your dollars! Hope this helps!

[Jerry Wieland]

Long as you have the motor all tore down you should check for cracks in the area I circled. 1940 and 1941 OHV's are very prone to cracking in that area, Jerry