VL Frame

[scootertrash]

Does anyone out there know where I can get a copy of VL frame blueprints with dimensions. I am posting this for a friend who is not very computer literate. He is restoring a 34 VL and is having issues with getting the frame lined up ( note he has a frame table and knows how to use it) but with out the center line dimension he is just guessing.

Thanks,
Scootertrash

[Steve Slocombe]

I've been looking for 20 years and not found a VL frame blueprint, but there are frame straighteners out there who may be able to help.

[ronald]

Yeah, VL frame print and dimension info is hard to come by. Since you have the luxury of access to a frame table and some one who knows how to use it why not generate your own dimensions? They will be very close to the originally engineered dimensions provided your frame hasn't been badly mutilated. There will most likely be some variances from ideal but all your parts will fit and the bike will ride nice if every thing is square and parallel. Begin with supporting the frame by using the front foot board mount forging and a piece of round stock about 12 to 15 in long that will fit through the loop hole closely and another piece of round stock that will closely fit through the side car mount bracket holes in the rear axle mount forging. Block up either end so the transmission forging will clear the table. You will need a precision tool makers level to check the table for level in all directions. Level the transmission mount side to side and end to end and solidly clamp to table so the transmission mounting forging is parallel in all directions to the table. You can remove the initial support blocking after the frame is securely clamped to the frame table. This will become your frame base. You can establish a center line extending a line parallel to the machined transmission mount slot, not the mounting bolt slots, fore and aft and measuring over to the lower seat tube hole center. That point will be the center of your frame. The reason you would want to use the transmission mount is that on a VL frame that is the only place is normally constant and flat. Your foot board loops, brake cross shaft tube and seat T mount should all be parallel and perpendicular to your frame base. The machined area of your motor mounts should be parallel side to side to your frame base and the mounting holes should be perpendicular to your fore and aft center line. Your seat tube center line should be perpendicular to the frame base side to side. You will have to fabricate a shaft to clamp through your neck that will extend forward to the frame base and the center line should be perpendicular to and intersect the center line of the frame base side to side. Neck angle can be measured at this time with a protractor. To check your rear axle mounts, you will need to make an "axle" that you can clamp between the forgings with its center line perpendicular to your frame center line. Then you can measure down to your frame base on either end of the center line of your "axle" to check for a twist in the rear frame section. All of your measurements will not be perfect. If you get them to within 1/16th of an inch you have good frame geometry, you're looking for obvious damage either by crash, modification, rust and corrosion or sloppy earlier repair that needs to be corrected before beginning paint and reconstruction.
Good Luck! Ron AMCA 12339