1925 JD Cannonball Bike

[Jerry Wieland]

Yesterday at the Viking Chapter AMCA meet I picked up a few things for my bike - among them was the shifting linkage bracket on the left. When I compared it to the one I had I noticed that it was not as heavy duty. Anybody have a year split for these different/same pieces.



Thanks Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

Awhile back I showed some pictures of my worn pivot hole on the brake pedal. Here the pedal is after it was bushed with a brass bushing.

Can somebody also verify that the hole originally was 1/4" in diameter.



Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

Can anybody verify if this is the correct profile for my rocker clutch linkage finger. I noticed a couple of other JD's have a bracket that does not make the two 90 degree bends but maybe more like 60 degree.

I know I have to redo the linkage shaft yet.



Thanks Jerry

[MMasa]

Jerry
1926 is the first year for the 90/90 arm.
Mark Masa

[Jerry Wieland]

Mark Will this work with a 1925 transmission?

Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

I tried but was never able to find a one-year only 1925 OEM fender and nobody apparently making them. I recently purchased a Replicant Metals reproduction of a 1924 and down fender.

What makes 1925 one year only is it is the only narrow fender made for the shorter front end. HD lowered the profile of the 1925 and up bikes by approximately 1 inch when they changed to the curved frame back bone and gastank but still kept the narrow fenders for 1925.

Here is the fender mounted in the front fork the way I thought it should sit...



But if I tighten the mounting bolts down so that the fender pulls to the mounting tabs this is the way it sits,



Does anybody have a 1925 that they can measure from the lower rear of the fender to the fork mounting hole. I sure would appreciate that number.

Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

Here is what I attempted to make - a brake anchor for my frontend. This is the only picture I had to go on plus my memory. This is a 1926/1927
frontend on a friend's 1928 bike with a late version OEM brake anchor installed.



The thickness of an OEM anchor doubled up and painted is about .220 so I started with 2 pieces of 12 gauge sheet steel and bent each in an angle in a brake.





I formed the 2 pieces around the leg using heat from a torch.







Then it was a matter of trimming metal until it resembled the original one







Believe me this was all very time consuming and I would not go into production because no one could afford to pay the labor.

Here is the finished product needing only the anchor hole and some touch up cosmetics and then paint.



I did have to cheat a little because of my wider wheel hub. I could not have the anchor wrap full around the back do to limited space for my brake anchor so I trimed it off and then stitch welded the back instead of brazing.

Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

Here is the frame fresh from powder coat and ready to start parts hanging.



One question. What is the threaded hole for in the middle of the upper frame member and what is the thread pitch?



Normally I like to assemble everything without paint first but time is short and I do not feel that I have the time to mock it all up.

Jerry

Jerry

[sswaney]

"One question. What is the threaded hole for in the middle of the upper frame member and what is the thread pitch?"

Jerry, that would be for your ground wire location. It's 8-32 I believe.

Scott

[Jerry Wieland]

Thanks Scott - that makes sense. Jerry