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Thread: 1925 JD Cannonball Bike

  1. #51
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    Aug 2006
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    Jerry, this is very interesting stuff + fun to watch your progress and methods. Thanks for sharing!

  2. #52
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    Jan 2006
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    Menomonie, WI
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    Yesterday we got a bit more accomplished. I got the left case fit to the frame. First thing I did was take a file and knock down the high spots on both the frame and the engine case. Actually I had done the frame weeks ago when I first started straightening. At that time I had determined that they were in the same plane by using a heavy straight edge and running a feeler gauge behind it to make sure that there were no low spots. The engine cases I did yesterday. The pjot is actually after I got done because I forgot to take a photo before - sorry.







    Be careful filing because doing one end can affect the fit on the other drastically. I do not recommend using any power tools for this because they remove metal entirely too fast. The first thing I did was to clamp the case light in the frame on the back mount making absolute sure that all the holes were aligned and the case was sitting exactly where it would when mounted. Then I took a feeler gauge and run it between the front motor and frame mount. I had about .007". I then reversed the procedure. I clamped the front mount and took a feeler gauge between the rear motor and frame mount. It was what I would call a "negative" fit. I had to spread the case over to get it in and when I tried to pull it out I had to tug on it a little bit. On both ends of the motor I took as many reading with the feeler gauge as I could so as to get a good feel for where I had to remove metal. With the readings I got I was comfortable with being able to rectify the situation without using shims or having to build up either surface. There is a point and I do not now where it is that a light filing will not do the job to fit a case into a frame. I should add here that this case is actually not the original case to this frame because I ended up with almost 1/4" gap on one end when I first tried the original so I got a replacement 1925 case.









    I used a very small fine flat file that I could easily manipulate with my fingers. Number one problem today is that it is almost impossible to find good flat files and that is what is needed to do a good job.



    After spending some thought on it and at the risk of simplification I filed a light bit off of the rear mount, please understand that I only stoked the file a few times before I remounted and this time with bolts. This whole procedure took at least 4 hours and I repeatedly alternately bolted and filed until I had it so that I could not get my thinnest feeler gauge (.0015") in anywhere.

    Also remember that if your cases do not fit together perfectly this can be wrong when you try to mount them when they are assembled. The left case can easily be distorted by the right case. The cases should be fit together and race ready before you fit them to the frame.

    Jerry
    Last edited by Jerry Wieland; 04-22-2012 at 10:03 PM.

  3. #53
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    Feb 2003
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    High in the B.C. Rockies....
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    Now that's fine tuning!!! Other than skill and knowledge the biggest attribute to a restoration is patience!!! Great stuff!!!
    Cory Othen
    Membership#10953

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Menomonie, WI
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    Started on the front fork yesterday. Here is a picture of the dent that I need to get out.



    Made a slug on the lathe out of some scrap shafting that was tapered at both ends and threaded on one end so I could drive it in and drive it out of the tube with the dent.







    I heated it red hot and drove it in and then pulled it back out. I'll have to do some dressing of the surface with a flat file but all in all it came out decent.



    I did discover another another problem after the fact that is evident in this next photo. Either there was a slight bend in the upper tube from the original dent or I put it there when I heated and removed it. It is inexcusable that I did not notice this before hand if in fact it was there but either way it is something that is not totally unexpected as anytime you dent metal it causes a distortion.

    Last edited by Jerry Wieland; 04-24-2012 at 09:46 PM.

  5. #55
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    Jan 2006
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    Menomonie, WI
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    Today I also took a good look at my spring fork and found that although the tubes seem to be straight the assembly is twisted about 3/8" at the bridge.





    I also found evidence of the original Olive paint. I was really hoping that I would not see this because I hate to destroy any original paint considering the value of original paint bikes. It is gone on the surfaces that were easy to get at but inside by the springs it still remains. I have found no other OP on any other component. It appears that it was painted red while the fokr was assembled.





    Hopefully I can knock the front end out tomorrow night.

    Jerry

  6. #56
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    Jan 2006
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    Menomonie, WI
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    Still working on the front end. Nothing is ever as esay as one would think. Mainly making a fixture to check for straightness and to fix the bend I already know about. Should be able to get a bunch done this weekend.

    I got to looking at the front end and started wondering if JD's need a steering dampner. I think it would be fairly easy to install. I have never actually ever ridden a JD so I have no clue. Any outside help/suggestion would be appreciated. I once got into a high speed wobble on a 1940 EL and it is not fun. Closest I ever came to crashing

    Jerry

  7. #57
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    Dec 2006
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    jerry look at some photos of brough superiors. i think i saw some with a dampner mounted from the tank mounting bolts up to the fork.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    NH
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    I've had my 26 jd to 60mph and it was solid. I have never felt a wobble coming on. I have about 500 miles on mine, and had not ridden one before, either. It is a nimble machine, I really like it.
    Dan Margolien
    Rhinebeck Coaltion June 14, 15 2013
    Yankee National Meet August 2, 3 2013
    danmargolien@yahoo.com
    JD enthusiasts: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/harleyjd/

  9. #59
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    Jan 2006
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    Menomonie, WI
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    Rob I kind of mocked it up and it looks like underneath would probably be the easiest but I am not sure of clearance. I have seen bikes with a top dampner and in fact HD used one on their Glide front ends in the 50's. A top one would probably have enough room -- I would probably have to design it from scratch.

    I am going to go look at a friend's 1928 JD later this evening to get an idea about how much clearance there is between a dampner and the fender.

    Jerry

    Thanks for the reply and idea. Jerry

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Menomonie, WI
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    Dan I have now talked to a few JD owners and some say it wouldn't hurt and some say they do not believe it is necessary. With that in mind I think I will start looking into fitting one to the bike just to be sure. Jerry

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