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Thread: Brush Paint Finish..?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
    Posts
    2,286

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    I've used sable hair brushes and they are indeed the finest brushes on the planet. They are also the most expensive. The last '0' size sable brush I bought cost $15 and that had to be 10 years ago. I have a friend that is a professional water color artist and he has a larger sable hair brush that cost over $200 and they go up from there. If I was going to brush paint a bike I wouldn't buy a sable hair brush but I would look at synthetic fiber brushes at a good art supply store.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Central Illinois, USA
    Posts
    1,723

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    NOT a PAINTER I!

    So years ago I bought cheap Krylon in the can and slopped it on with a loosehair brush, and then wetsanded and buffed it to a delightful deep gloss. *Sigh*

    But then the gasoline changed.

    It seems that only isocyanate urethanes (akin to Imron) endure the injector cleaners and oxygenators that digest other finishes, and even some quality powdercoatings.
    But they don't "rub out",

    Or so I'm told.....?

    ....Cotten

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    123

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    Quote Originally Posted by T. Cotten View Post
    NOT a PAINTER I!

    So years ago I bought cheap Krylon in the can and slopped it on with a loosehair brush, and then wetsanded and buffed it to a delightful deep gloss. *Sigh*

    But then the gasoline changed.

    It seems that only isocyanate urethanes (akin to Imron) endure the injector cleaners and oxygenators that digest other finishes, and even some quality powdercoatings.
    But they don't "rub out",

    Or so I'm told.....?

    ....Cotten

    Yep,... Thank you EPA!

    Protecting the environment, hmmm, maybe.. OR,... safty-ing us to DEATH!

    I think the latter.....

    Maybe China's still producing good 'ol lead-based oil paints and lacquers these days? Though with the genius of the ethanol additive among others, that good 'ol lacquer would just dissolve away quicker than you could say, "what the??!!"
    "The beauty of life is more the crying baby than the great orchestra." -Woody Guthrie

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
    Posts
    2,286

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    I've rubbed out Imron with excellent results. It's just a lot harder to sand and I'm coping. . coping. . . coping with the nerve damage.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    123

    Question Paint on frames and front ends, etc.....??

    So fellas, let me ask you, what are you using to paint your front ends and frames?

    I'm ready to throw something on the front end I have (as its blasted clean now) and I'm up in the air between using a PPG urethane primer and a single stage or base coat/clear coat finish on it, as well as the frame.

    Part of me would like to go really traditional and do a lacquer job, but I'm on the fence about it.
    I know using either the lacquer or enamel would certainly be "period correct". I do need to make sure its durable and I still need to re-rivet the fender tabs as one rivet is loose and there is a little bot of gunk trapped in the nooks and crannies behind the tabs as I used a pick to get out all I could, so I figured I'd just take out the rivets and thoroughly clean it,... hence I'd like to throw primer on it so I can still handle it and work on it before paint.

    What do you fellas use?? What's your plan of attack?

    Thanks guys
    "The beauty of life is more the crying baby than the great orchestra." -Woody Guthrie

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,042

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    i used utek (akzo product) metal etch primer then a base coat and a clear coat on top.did a lot of sanding im not a good painter utek line is for body shop spot repair no sanding need if coats are with in 24 hrs. you can sand if needed. has 2 day easy sand time after that it takes alot to sand. cure time can be decreased with heat lamp.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    123

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    Quote Originally Posted by rwm View Post
    i used utek (akzo product) metal etch primer then a base coat and a clear coat on top.did a lot of sanding im not a good painter utek line is for body shop spot repair no sanding need if coats are with in 24 hrs. you can sand if needed. has 2 day easy sand time after that it takes alot to sand. cure time can be decreased with heat lamp.
    Yes a friend of mine loves Akzo products,... I'm more familiar with PPG and have used Dupont's Centari. I've heard a LOT of good things about PPG's single stage stuff though,.. so I'm leaning towards it,... yet not entirely sure, so I figured on getting some opinions and see what's been successfully used, etc.

    I don't really like the "wet" look of a 2-stage paint,...
    Last edited by 1776J; 08-17-2009 at 06:43 PM.
    "The beauty of life is more the crying baby than the great orchestra." -Woody Guthrie

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Havre de Grace, MD
    Posts
    6

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    Hey Gang,

    Glad and a little suprised to see my paint question generated some positive interest!

    Once I've got the new tanks and fenders and start working, I'll post images. I've found a couple internet places that sell "coach paint" and will ship to the US. We'll see how it all works out!

    Clint

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