Eric... if you check the Trash and Treasures section of your latest Antique Motorcycle magazine, you'll find an ad for decals... it should answer your questions.
As for sealing decals, yes... they need to be sealed. Original decals were sealed with varnish. Most restorers, owadays, seal them under their clearcoats. Personally, I've used a 1-Shot product called "Sign Restoring Clear"... they also make a "Sign Finishing Clear". I think these work well if you're going for an "original" type of appearance. The secret is to brush the clear just slightly beyond the clear binder coat on the decal... this seals them to the surface and protects them.
As for vinyl decals... I can't imagine using them on a bike that originally had water type decals. Applied properly, water decals work very well.
Last edited by jondutch; 09-12-2009 at 06:53 PM. Reason: Spelling and content
Well here is what I did for a 38 Knuckle. I bought a genuine water transfer and used it for a pattern and got my "decals" air brushed on. This girl was so good that if you put the decal beside the airbrush, you cannot tell the difference.
Even after it was judged 3 times they all missed it too, but judging in a whole different story that I will not discuss here.
I've got some decals I'd like to have made. Does anybody make water decals anymore? Dave
Yup. Let yer fingers do the walking.
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i think doug strange make them.i'll look for his # this weekend
rob ronky #10507
you might want to contact these folks----they sell almost every type of decal harley ever used at the oley meet and i think rhinebeck and wauseon too. they even have the very rare confederate decals for the gas tanks and front fender braid for 1977 only confederate edition harley
J & M COLLECTIBLES
JIM & MARY GODWIN
7172 RT 707
PO BOX 166
MENDON, OH 45862-0166
mon tue wed fri 9-8
These guys had a display at Davenport and I think Rhinebeck and it looks like they do a nice job. The website has more.
I've used clear nail polish with success....
Huntington, New York