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Thread: nickel plating 36 -7 barrels, and heads

  1. #11
    c.o. Guest

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    Very interesting stuff indeed!!! I've seen the results of the reverse plating process. It works pretty darn good! A friend of mine had the misfortune of having his shop burn to the ground and he lost one of his bikes in the process. It wasn't a total loss. He did manage to rebuild the shovel. But his plating was absolutely screwed!!! So he did the ol' battery charger in a solution trick ( I can't remember what he used?).

    Thanks for all the info Eric, this has been a valuable thread!

  2. #12
    inrustwetrust Guest

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    I agree with Cotten that electroless is the best for cylinders. It penetrates into the bottom of the fins easily, as sulphamate, or nickle no brightener does not as easliy. If the nickle is not that bad, don't remove what is in deep and re-electroplate it. Electroless, as far as I understand, was developed during WW2. It is a different color than the sulphamate but tones in nicely. The big problem in electroplating is that most platers don't know how to get penetration deep into the fins and try to make up for it by leaving it in too long which results in too much nickle, yet not enough to get to the bottom. The end result is a gobby looking job that rusts in the crevaces and creates poor gasket mating surfaces and adds to overheating due to poor heat transfer through the overly thick layer of plating. Preventing plating from going on unwanted surfaces is commonly called masking. It is always best to talk with your plater if you want to mask yourself, as there are many ways to accomplish masking. I think plating then machining is the logical step. As with all plating jobs, I always pick up as soon as possible and then immerse the freshly plated parts in clean hot non detergent motor oil and only wipe clean before assembly.. If you do that, you will thank yourself many times over ten years from now when the plating work still looks good and is not rusting from the inside out.

  3. #13
    vintageamerican Guest

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    The plating is very ruff on the boring tool.. I paint all the machine surfaces with a lacquar base paint, It is the correct PH for the plating tanks

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