The bottom cup will point down and the upper cup will point up.
Type: Posts; User: harleytoprock
The bottom cup will point down and the upper cup will point up.
Good info! I've had a few spring ideas that I haven't tried. One is to use teflon liners between the spring leafs to reduce friction. Maybe this might make the fork too bouncy with zero friction....
My 1936 riders hand book states 18lbs front, 20lbs rear for VL with 4.00 tires.
I was just looking at the 1929 Harley riders manual. The recommended tire pressure back then was 16 lbs front, 20lbs rear for a solo machine! This is for 3.85X20 tires. My 27' Jd feels better to ride...
I have bored out the JD main drive gear , pressed in the later bushing and used it with the VL mainshaft. You have to use a carbide for the boring as the metal is way hard. It worked out nice.
Yes, thats the simplest way. Also, to test charge rate, I use a very old amp guage thats very sensitive and detects as little as 1 amp. I connect it in series with the battery for the test. These JD...
If it wasn't polarized, it would'nt put out anything. But just so you know, just take positive 6 volts and touch it to the gen output wire momentarily. That's assuming the gen is in the bike and the...
Well, you had me going there for a while. Tell us more about the farmer's daughter.
Last I heard is that he was having some issues and hasn't returned yet to the hobby. I wish him the best and I hope his excellent parts are available again sometime soon.
Well, I finally got the old ball and spring out. I drilled a small hole on the backside, then using a very skinny punch I knocked it out. After soaking in kroil it took a few tries to get some...
Does someone have an original DL-33 venturi and could measure the actual venturi size for me? I know the lists call it a .750" venturi but I'm finding that the venturis are sometimes larger than...
I use 80 grit aluminum oxide media which is pretty coarse. I think the oil oil soaks in and hangs on better. The darkness of color depends on the chemical composition of the steel. Not all steels...
Condenser goes on the timer side. Can is grounded and wired parallel with the points
I would do the final boring and valve seat cutting after the plating. I believe electroless nickle goes right on to the cast iron with out any copper build up. I honed my cylinders on my 15" and 14"...
If your using pistons with modern rings, leave the baffles out. There are a lot of myths concerning these baffles. I run all of my old iron with no baffles and no problems.
Sirhr gave very good advise. You can get a flat piece of 1/4 glass cut for a very reasonable cost and use that as the flat plate. If the pump is rough you can even start with 180 grit wet or dry...
It sure makes me nervous seeing that baby sitting on the 1915 HD!
I've always had a lot of respect for Jim. He was a real gentleman and was a pleasure to talk with at the meets. He will be missed. RIP brother.
I'm looking to buy a distributor elbow casting for a mid 30's chief/scout. It is to be used on a non fuctioning display motor, so any piece of junk will do. Thanks
I would set the valve stem clearence for .004. I would set wrist pin fit in con rod at .0005 to .001. Maybe they are trying to say .003 is the wear limit.
I really miss the Harmony meet. I wish it would come back!
Can someone please help with a measurement? I need the exact outside diameter of the rear wheel hub powerplus bearing races. Thank you!
The trick set up when using the King Clutch is to use only 8 springs.
I've used a o-ring. Seemed to work ok.
I think I have an extra generator and timer I could sell.