View Full Version : Painting Lifter Blocks
01-06-2003, 10:38 PM
Has anyone had any sucess with silver/gray paint for cast Iron lifter blocks. Mine keep getting rusty. I think it has something to do with a slightly leaky Linkert.
Also does anyone know what color a Llinkert body should be. Mine had a crazy half scraped off black paint job on it when I sent it to Mike Milay years ago. He sent it back with no paint on the body so I left it that way. I read in a book that all linkerts should be painted black. I am talkin about a m74b for a 1961 Panhead
Thank you in Anticipation, (a little British saying I picked up)
01-09-2003, 08:18 AM
THE BODY OF THAT CARB IS BLACK,WITH A SILVER BOWL.ENJOY YOUR RESTORATION.........I GOT 99 POINTS 2 YEARS IN A ROW ON MY 1960FLH
01-09-2003, 08:00 PM
Thanks for the reply I was hoping the answer would not be black. After ten years of having this bike as my main ride I decided to get a bike that handled a little better and bought a 1972 boattail Superglide. It does handle a bit better than the pan. Riding the pan is like sitting in an easychair on top of a shopping cart. Rediculously comfortable on the straights but I do not lean her much into the curves. The plan was to sell the pan but everytime I walk into the garage I cannot imagine selling it. Plus I have only daughters so far and one night my nephews were over and each claimed one bike upon my demise! ( I also have a BSA)
I think now in my spare time I will do the necessary BS detailing to put it into as stock condition as I can.
I thought putting a solo seat on it might lower the seat height and it might have a better feel but I have not done that yet.
How do you feel about the way yours rides?.
01-10-2003, 08:59 PM
It's obscenely expensive but I use Harley Hi Temp Silver/Gray with good results (part number 98606EL) ... Perry
01-11-2003, 10:46 AM
I should have put in my original message that that is what I have used to paint them twice. I have found most Harley products to give excellent results, be of high quality, and yes also cost a wheelbarrow full of cash. So I was suprised when these rusted so quickly.
01-11-2003, 11:10 AM
What about shooting a light coat of those new rust inhibitor coatings. The ones that chemically change light rust into a black primer type coating. You would clean the metal part well of any surface rust and apply one or two light coats to seal the micro scopic rust deep in the pores of the casting. Actually I think that their so thin that it could be applied with a fine hair brush. Would be undetectable once you apply the silver/gray. are these type inhibitors 'allowed'?....Hrdly-Dangrs
01-11-2003, 11:51 AM
You really are a rebel! They did not have rust inhibiters in 1961! I first remember seeing them in the 80's.
I think you are right though they might work. I am unsure though of their ability to withstand heat. I will have to check some out and read the product labels. At least it is an easy part to repaint.
01-11-2003, 01:53 PM
Yeah, probably not 'correct' and I admit I'm not sure where the AMCA stands on all matters concerning 'Modern' metal conditioners and treatments. But with advances in Lubricants and paints over the last 100+ years, you have to question whether on one hand you can use the 'Modern' oils and greases that are only availble today in our 'Antiques' motors with their 'New' Timken replacement bearings, but not allow a 'New' clear coating over 'New' paints with 'New' chemically compounded additives that are are only available to use on our 'Antigue' Original metal parts. Yes, some manufacturers in the early years didn't apply a clear coats but, then again, they probably didn't use a metal conditioner on the bare metal tanks back then either, that most modern paint manufactuers require (Recommend?) you use today to keep those paints sticking to your bike. (I think I stated that right?) Plus, unless your a real good body man and can get those dings and dents out thru shear 'skill', your probably finishing the metal parts off with some kind of 'modern' 'Bondo' filler regardless of how 'Thin' you apply it. Don't think they were available back in the twenties. Probably 'lead' fillers and a torch and some damned good skills would be required! You know, I always hear that 'This part or that part' came from the factory seemngly 'flawless' . I don't buy that. People are not perfect and when you have a group of any people trying to assemble a complicated piece of mechanical machinery and working in various types of media (paint) included, interesting things happen. Touch-ups on the paints, this bike comes out with a little varnish on a decal/stripe, a little wet sanding here to hide this or that. All early hap-hazard fixes that over the years become the norm. (Boy do I need to go for a ride!) So anyway, in the interest of preserving these now 'Restored' (READ: EXPENSIVE!!) antigue original parts...maybe acceptance of modern preservatives, that includes 'Clear coatings' (Thats really what they are) should not have points deducted when judging. ....If I can just get these voices out of my head...:o :rolleyes: ....Hrdly-Dangrs
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