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exeric
05-08-2019, 04:00 PM
I have a 1966 450 Honda. I had to break the timing chain to disassemble the motor as there is no master link, and there is no other way to separate the bottom end from the top end. So, my question is; can a master link be used in that application, or should it be a continuous chain. I've seen new master link type timing chains on ebay and wonder if that is okay, or something to be avoided. Thanks.

exeric
05-08-2019, 05:52 PM
I just answered my own question by doing a google search (the internet can be a blessing). Honda offered a master link that has countersunk holes that can be swaged to create an endless chain. I found one on ebay. I'll make a tool that can squish the axels out to retain the outer link.

jim d
05-08-2019, 06:11 PM
The earlier BMW airheads did not have a master link. But the later ones were supplied with one from new.

exeric
05-08-2019, 07:18 PM
Thanks, Jim. That's one of those things can torture a person in the middle of the night. I've never had a drive chain fail because of a master link, but like the old saying; a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. . . . . I'm already torturing myself:)

reds esso
05-12-2019, 04:19 PM
There is no problem using masterlink just make SURE the trailing edge is at the bottom of the direction of travel

exeric
05-12-2019, 04:50 PM
Thanks guys. It is always assuring to get advice from people with knowledge, and experience.

chuckthebeatertruck
06-25-2019, 01:55 PM
Thanks guys. It is always assuring to get advice from people with knowledge, and experience.

I lived with the "next generation" of the 450 twin, the 500T for more than a decade of daily, commuter riding. The only weak part of that whole motor is the cam chain -- and more specifically the sucky cam chain tensioner which causes the chain to wear much faster than it should. So, yes, replacement of cam chains in situ is not uncommon and it is pretty straight forward.

You can make a plate setting tool -- though the specific tool is only $20 or so.


The press on master link works fine; just be advised that it has to seat perfectly (9500rpm!) and completely. Unlike a drive chain; it won't "pull itself" in as you wind it up. That chain will sing and dance to its own harmonics . . .and close enough isn't good enough.


I do recall being able to hear it "whine" at first . . . but as the chain wore a bit it sounded "normal" and I did not think of it again until I saw this thread.