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cosmikdebriis
05-25-2015, 03:47 PM
I want to clean my Schebler DLX 50 carb and as part of that process I'd like to remove the "Main Nozzle".

I was told that the spring below it was there to hold the nozzle in place but mine seems to be stuck even with the spring removed. Is there something else holding it in place or do I just need to use a bit more force?

I'm assuming it simply pushes out through the bottom of the carb body?

Whilst I'm here I'd be grateful of any other general advice on cleaning the thing.

T. Cotten
05-25-2015, 04:08 PM
Cosmik!

I use a threaded puller, heat, penetrant, and patience.

....Cotten

cosmikdebriis
05-25-2015, 07:48 PM
Thanks for that. I'll see what I can do.

In your experience, does the main nozzle get bocked up?

Should I be trying to get the Venturi block out? (If so, is there a certain technique?

My bike's a 27 Police Scout and I'm having some idling problems. Spark is good so I thought I'd clean the carb thoroughly and see if it's that.

Below is a link to a Youtube clip of my bike made by a previous owner. Unfortunately it was then sold and left stood unused for a few years which is possibly why I'm having trouble.

https://youtu.be/oH8Pt9Epv28

23JDCA 808
05-26-2015, 06:43 AM
I've heard on these discussions that the pot metal body can change shape with age. Cotton?

cosmikdebriis
05-26-2015, 09:40 AM
Good news. Mine came out fairly easily with the threaded bar method (an old bicycle spoke did the trick).

Next query... Can't see why, but does it matter which way round the nozzle fitted? There doesn't seem to be any sort of locating device (unless I'm missing something)?

At a glance I might have assumed the holes and groove in the nozzle might have had to lign up with the slot in the venturi but the nozzle seems pretty free to rotate anyway.

Apologies for these "dumb ass" (to use the vernacular) questions but I'm a Brit and much more used to Amal carbs than Schebler.

Thanks for all your help though.

T. Cotten
05-26-2015, 12:22 PM
Cosmik!

There is no indexing for the nozzle, but it make folks feel better to aim the slot at the air source, whether it is air correction hole through the side of the body, or the slot in the front of the venturi.

Bill!

Different vintages have their different characteristics.
DLX 85 and earlier were more prone to "leadpest" cracking, although even the last were not immune.

The most prone to distorting are DLX113s and 124s, which I often assumed may have been heat/fire related, but twins are not immune either.

Since the potmetal is a "supercooled liquid", it is constantly moving, and even the detente spring and ball on the HS needles will lean the knob outward, ruining the aim at the seat.
Today I have a DLX77 and a 113 on the bench. The bore of the 77 is just of couple of thou out of round; The 113 is sixteen.

The venturies are potmetal as well (except '40s and early bronze type Bs), and often show gaps around their OD after cleaning.
The hole for the nozzle spigot and the spigot itself should be inspected for wear, as any gap defeats the "accelerator sump" function.

....Cotten

cosmikdebriis
05-26-2015, 01:27 PM
Again apologies for not really understanding all this but... When you refer to "Potmetal" (or as we'd call it "Gak" metal. I'm assuming you mean some sort of aluminium/zinc alloy? Mine would appear to be a pretty solid (and heavy) lump of bronze. It has DL59 marked on it (could be 69 0r even 53/63 as it's a bit indistinct).

Think I'll leave the venturi alone and reassemble the rest.

Thanks again and, by the way, I'm Dave... Cosmikdebriis is merely a reference to a Frank Zappa song that I've been using for forums etc as it's easier than my name. It confuses the hell out of a lot of people on English forums:p

T. Cotten
05-26-2015, 01:51 PM
Dave!

Sorry for the confusion; Bill asked about potmetal carbs, but they weren't produced until June of '29..

Whether brass or potmetal, the venturi must be removed for cleaning.

....Cotten

cosmikdebriis
05-26-2015, 02:32 PM
I just knew you were going to say that...:rolleyes: :)

Okay, so how does it come out? So far I've not removed the throttle butterfly, only the choke as there didn't seem to be any obvious signs of wear on the throttle and I didn't want to disturb it.

T. Cotten
05-26-2015, 04:14 PM
Well Dave,

Any stone unturned hides something that will bite you from behind.
Please remove the throttle assembly, and assuming it is relatively clean and the nozzle is removed, you may likely be able to tap the venturi out with a large wooden dowel, like a sawn poolcue.

It is also likely that it will fight you to the end. And its end may well have been decades ago, due to that 'leadpest' thing if you find a potmetal venturi (or if it is billet brass, it will have beaten clearance into the body bore).
Although I can routinely swage Linkerts back to size and oversize, many DLXs are fossilized.

Some sizes can be fudged from Linkert replacements. Some must be cut from scratch.

....Cotten
PS: The measure of a throttle assembly is the daylight around the disc when the idle screw is relieved.
Replacing bushings and shaft, usually with a fresh disc, is a "given", as play is what leads to borewear from the throttledisc, and eventual "consumption" of the carburetor.