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Bill Pedalino
07-21-2012, 04:44 AM
I'm not really sure where to post this thread, so here it is....

I've been following the Carl's Supply ad in the AMCA Magazine and noticed that he now supplies a replica knucklehead/panhead Y-Pipe. It even has the correct wide saddle at the Y-Joint. From the advertisement, it looks very nice. Having seen his 1941-sytle muffler at Oley one year, it seems like he offers high-quality replica products. Does anyone know if Carl's Y-pipe has the correct bend? New OEM Y-Pipes are as rare as hen's teeth and require a mortgage to buy. The other replacement Y-pipes are bent such that the muffler projects at an inclined angle and the pipe must be corrected before being installed. It would be nice to avoid the necessary cut/weld or heat bending necessary to achieve the correct muffler angle if a new part with the correct geometry is now available.

Thanks..

tomcat1
07-21-2012, 08:21 AM
Bill,

I would wait until Wauseon is over and give them a call Monday morning.

len dowe
07-22-2012, 09:59 PM
I know that if Carl and Matt are reproducing it. It's to specs. they don't half ass anything they sell..
I bought a rocket and early muffler from them and they are dead nuts on!!

Rollo
07-23-2012, 08:46 AM
I spoke with Carl at Wauseon specifically about this issue and he said he is not producing them himself as he has found that doing so was expensive and that the new V-TWin one was pretty close so that is what he is using. He did say that to make it even more correct though that you need to drill a couple of holes in it at the rear pipe saddle and weld throught the holes and then grind off the weld on the saddle that V-Twin does.

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766

bobdo
07-25-2012, 08:42 AM
Rollo,
That's interesting, is that to simulate spot welds or something? What was the reason?
I agree with Len, if Carl & Matt are providing it, its right. I just put a Corso Y pipe on mine & the saddle is obviously the wrong shape. I can't understand why repops can't get the easy stuff right. Another peev of mine is the hole cut at the intersection is always sloppy & too small. I always grind it out for better flow.

Rollo
07-25-2012, 08:50 AM
Bob,

I too think anything Carl offers is or will be top notch and that Corso's pipe is a weak attempt at making a part. The main problem seems to be that guys use pipe benders and not a die like the MOCO did to make it. You simply can not get the bends and angles correct and I don't know why they can't get the saddle correct. If I remember the saddles were brazed on not welded but better to speak directly to Carl on that one.

Tom(Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766

bobdo
07-25-2012, 11:16 PM
Rollo,
I believe your right, they should be brazed. I was just wondering why the drilling & welding on the saddle. I'll have to ask Carl what he meant by that.
I wanted to talk to Carl at Wauseon, but of course he was a busy guy.

Joe G
07-26-2012, 12:59 PM
I bought a Corso system and could not get things to line up right (56 Pan). I unded up getting a rear pipe from Carl and it made everything work out Ok.

Slojo
07-27-2012, 12:18 PM
Humm Who is this junior member "Joe G" imposter?

The other joe g

Bill Pedalino
07-28-2012, 06:12 AM
Rollo,
You state that Carl stated that the V-Twin pipe is 'close'. Do you know if the angle problem was addressed with Ted's pipe or is the muffler angle still off?

Rollo
07-29-2012, 08:52 AM
Bill,

Not really sure, as our conversation was during a judging seminar and then at his vendor spot in Wauseon and we kept getting interupted. Best thing I can say is to call him directly and get it straight from him. My guess is they are using a pipe bender and from what I can gather that is not the way the originals we made. They were made using a press and a die and that is the only way besides a lot of hand work to get them correct. I think the issue is the angles are too close together and you can't get the clamps set close enough to get all the bends correct. I know someone out there on this forum has done it this way and his work looked good but in reading his posts it took an lot of work. I really wish someone out there would do this the correct way and turn out one that fits and lines up properly but I guess that it is too expensive to create the die.

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA # 12766

Bill Pedalino
07-29-2012, 09:23 AM
Thanks Rollo. There is a guy in the forum who heat-bent the Corso pipe using an internal spring as a template to hold the concentricity while bending. Great technique. From what he states, and it came out very well. I'll copy his technique if I can't find an accurate aftermarket piece. Another method is to place a vertical slice from the bottom of the pipe up past the pipe's centerline, tweak-in the correct bend and weld it up. But I like the first (non-destructuve) method better.

Rollo
07-30-2012, 08:51 AM
Bill,

The first method you refer to was the same one I was refering to also, and as you stated looked pretty darn good but seems like an awful lot of work to get it right. I just can't understand why someone can't get it right when they go to all the trouble to make it in the first place. If some one did they would have more orders than they would know what to do with. Maybe that's it.

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766