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kg993
09-15-2011, 02:21 PM
Not sure where to post this but I have a trans case that's been bead blasted and want to try to get it back to origional apperance. Or at least as close as possible. Thought of scuffing with sand paper then blasting with walnut shell or soda or chemical dip???? What has been sucessful before?
Kerry

Robert Luland
09-15-2011, 03:02 PM
May be this will help. Bob L

http://www.harleyhummerclub.org/members/backyardbob/

kg993
09-15-2011, 07:11 PM
That sounds promising, I'll try it on something small & see how it comes out. Thanks
Kerry

T. Cotten
09-15-2011, 08:52 PM
Not sure where to post this but I have a trans case that's been bead blasted and want to try to get it back to origional apperance. Or at least as close as possible. Thought of scuffing with sand paper then blasting with walnut shell or soda or chemical dip???? What has been sucessful before?
KerryKerry!

Normal bead-blasting should not destroy the casting's character, with appropriate brushing and cleaning of course.
Any further scuffing would be further loss of authenticity.

If perhaps it has been polished at some time, or severely blasted with coarse media, then I commonly re-blast with steel shot to re-create a sand-cast finish.

But it will never again be the real thing.

....Cotten

kg993
09-15-2011, 09:39 PM
This was blasted with a mixture of worn out sand and glass bead media, mostly like dust. Its not rough by any means, just has that whitish finish to it that I want to get rid of.
I'll try Bob's idea on some junk part. If that don't work try try again. Small steel shot-low pressure??
Thanks, Kerry

T. Cotten
09-16-2011, 07:47 AM
Kerry!

Steel shot is for extreme re-texturing (among other things..)

The dullness you suggest could be brightened with a proper bead, soda, or hull blasting again, or as I prefer: wheelbrushed with impregnated nylon, marketed under names like 'Adalox' or 'Nylox', etc.
Fine bristles give less of a brushy appearance; I use everything from a 1/4" shank endbrush to a mounted 14" wheel, most often to remove as much embedded abrasive as possible.

...Cotten

ricmoran
09-16-2011, 02:06 PM
Been using ENVIROKLEAN for some time. We distribute various products for corrosion control and ENVIROKLEAN works well to clean aluminum back to it's original look. Not certain if this is 'factory' clean but whatever finish is on the aluminum this will satinize the look to a point you'd swear it was a fresh aluminum pour.

http://envirokleanproducts.samsbiz.com/page/1r9a2/Products.html

Once the aluminum is cleaned and if you wish to bring a lustre up use of DuPont white polisihing compound (this is the fine grit type) and then followed up with flour to remove the residual compound will make the aluminum look like it has been polished.

i use this routine once a year on the front lower tubes of the 02 VR and the VR's wheels as well.

If you don't want the polished look, just leave the aluminum alone after the ENVIROKLEAN treatment.

To get more miles out of the EK product I do degrease with gunk first, the an alkaline degreaser to get rid of the residual film left behind with gunk. Then the EK process. Use of a small disposable brush will insure that any EK does not go where you might not want it.

Be aware that any rust on parkerized or metal parts will be lifted with EK and always test a small area first with ANY chemical one might use. This insures that the finish meets your minds eye for what your after.

After the EK treatment for rust removal on carbon steel a treatment with CarWell CP-90 to rehydrate the metal with oil and a excellent corrosion inhibitor is applied.