View Full Version : 1940 indian rear shock removal
10-12-2008, 11:38 AM
can someone point out in step form how to remove rear shocks from a 1940 chief.
I got the lower screw on part into the frame out but can not figure out how the rest is removed
1940 indian chief
Well here goes................... I'll start from in the frame..... This info is courtesy of J.B. Nicholson's book "Modern Motorcycle Mechanics".
Diagram at bottom........
1. Remove rear wheel.
2. Remove the small grub screw in the top frame casting near the mudguard support lug. (Soak with penetrating oil if tight and rap on end of screwdriver with hammer to loosen.) The top dust cover sleeve can now be lowered.
3. Unscrew and remove both top and bottom spindle bolts "A"
4. Loosen pinch bolt "B" and unscrew and remove lower cup "I" at bottom of cylinder.
5. Compress the springs by fitting a spacer 2" long, 7/8" bore over the bottom of the slipper spindle shaft, fit and tighten bottom spindle bolt "A" until springs are compressed sufficiently to lower the spindle shaft and spring asssembly to clear the top frame casting so that the complete assembly can be lifted out of frame, top end first.
Removing Springs from Slipper Cylinder
1. Remove spindle bolt "A" and the 2" tube spacer used for compressing springs for removal from frame.
2. Remove lockring "C".
3. Place cylinder assembly in a press and exert pressure on top end of slipper shaft, support bottom of cylinder on a spacer so that bottom end of shaft can project through. This will compress lower spring "H" and relieve the tension on top spring "G" and cylinder cap ring nut "D", which can now be unscrewed.
4. Remove cap nut "D" when the shaft and springs can be removed.
Note- The top spring "G" (shortest) is the recoil spring and the lower spring "H" is the load spring. The slipper cylinder bushings should be free on the shaft. The taper end of the spindle shafts is the top, shouldered end is the bottom.
1. Clean and grease shaft and springs.
2. Install the longest spring "H" with the large end to bottom of slipper cyclinder.
3. Install slipper spindle shaft through from top with the shouldered end to the bottom of the cylinder.
4. Install the short spring "G" with the large end to the top of cylinder.
5. Fit cylinder cap "D" and place the unit in a press and compress spring, "H" so that cap "D" can be screwed into place lining up the slots in "D" with the slots in the cylinder "E".
6. Replace the lockring, fit the top dust cover.
7. Compress the springs using the 2" tube spacer and bolt at bottom, used in removal and fit the complete unit into frame.
8. Fit the top tapered end of the spindle shaft into top casting' start spindle bolt "A" a few threads to locate.
9. Remove the lower bolt "A" and the 2" tube spacer used to compress the springs; screw the lower cup "I" into place but do not tighten.
10. Tighten top spindle bolt "A".
11. Tighten lower cup "I" until felt to pull up, then slacken slightly, lock by tightening pinch bolt "B". Fit and tighten lower spindle bolt "A".
12. Slide the top dust cover up into place in top frame casting and lock with grub screw.
13. Note rear chain will require adjusting after fitting wheel.
I hope this helps!
10-19-2008, 01:57 PM
I found the screws filled in with grease and road grime then primered over
broke 2 screw driver heads trying to get the one side out, got the other no problems, still working on first side
I do not know if upper rubber gasket is holding the upper cover in place or more road grime, and blasting sand, upper cover inside slipper will not move or turn. It just slides down????
last owner sandblasted the frame with the shocks in place and are all full of sand and I wish to re-blast the frame and really need to remove the shocks, any tricks to remove will help
1940 indian military chief
10-19-2008, 04:41 PM
I'll tell you what I do to get slippers out but it will make me look like a moron to all of the Indian guys. I spread the bottom threaded forging out with a big screw driver and that lets the bottom cup slip right out. Sometimes you need to whack the top retaining bolt with a mallet to break the taper. That lets the whole assembly come out. The stupid thing about spreading the threaded forging is, you can mess up the thread alignment. You have to open it up carefully. I don't know if I'm explaining it very well. The area I'm talking about is where the bottom pinch bolt is located. I've done it quite a few time with different Indians and I have never had a problem with re-assembly.
I'll tell you what I do to get slippers out but it will make me look like a moron to all of the Indian guys.
Well eric, if it's tried and trued for you, then I can't see a moron judgement being relevant. I guess if the sandblasting was done with the shocks in place, then there is most likely sand in places it shouldn't be. Which like you say has got the shock in a wedged position. Eric's method may very well be the easiest way in this situation.
10-20-2008, 01:11 PM
the covers were encased in grime and sand between the frame and the cover that prevented the covers from sliding or turning - got one free working on other
tried the opening of lower frame to remove spring - worked like a charm
a big thanks to all that had input
1940 military indian chief
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